While summer may not scream “Amarone,” it was our last chance to snag the final five cases of the 2018 Ca’ La Bionda Amarone della Valpolicella on the West Coast. This is one of the most gorgeous renditions we’ve tasted in a long time—it was the highlight of a long tasting day last week.
The Amarone category is all over the map—from traditionally old-school to modern, extracted-bombastic styles. Ca’ La Bionda sits firmly in the traditional camp, marked by beautiful aromatics and mineral restraint. It’s a rare breed that channels the elegance of Burgundy while staying true to its deep Veneto roots.
Crafted by the Castellani family in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico zone, this wine is made from organically farmed Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Molinara. The grapes are dried slowly using the traditional appassimento method, then aged in large Slavonian oak casks. No flashy barriques, no overextraction—just purity, finesse, and terroir.
Amarone is an expensive category by nature: producers dry their grapes for several months after harvest to concentrate sugars and produce a richer wine. This drying process, called appassimento, can stretch into February, with grapes losing up to 40% of their weight (mostly water). The economics are simple: it’s more labor-intensive, there’s less of it, and it costs more. But this bottle? Still a bargain—especially given its quality, which can go toe-to-toe with legends like Bertani, Masi, and Quintarelli.
What sets this wine apart is its Burgundian grace. Instead of the typical Amarone bombast, the 2018 vintage offers layered red fruit, savory herbs, and mineral tension. It’s a wine of structure and soul—not syrup and swagger. It defies the stereotype of Amarone as merely a post-dinner indulgence. Marvel over the gliding waves of dried cherry, cocoa dust, and crushed rose petals on the palate, lifted by a kiss of alpine herbs and crushed stones. Its persistence and ultra-long finish make it the perfect closing wine for a decadent dinner.
Venetians would opt to pour this alongside Bigoli al’Anatra—a rich duck ragù pasta. Molte Grazie!
Press Accolades:
Vinous Media 94 Points:
“Impossible to ignore and decidedly savory, the 2018 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico impresses with a smoky blend of peppery spices, wild herbs, seared meats and dried black cherries. This is energetic yet intense, with a silken wave of ripe wild berry fruits and sour orange tones propelled by zesty acidity. The 2018 doesn't miss a beat, finishing classically dry and gently tannic, with rosy inner florals and a cranberry crunch. Hints of lavender slowly fade. This shows the elegance and pretty nature of the vintage while maintaining perfect balance.” - Eric Guido
