Domaine Arlaud began with the WWII-era marriage of Joseph Arlaud to Renée Amiot, whose family owned several prime Burgundy vineyards, including pieces of the Clos St. Denis and Bonnes Mares Grand Crus. Joseph’s son Hervé followed, expanding the domaine’s holdings further, then in 1997 it was Hervé’s son Cyprien’s turn to run the show. Perhaps the hallmark achievement of Cyprien’s tenure has been his conversion to biodynamic farming—fully certified in 2014, and the first in his home village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Though they’ve long been considered top notch Burgundy, Cyprien and his team have really hit their stride in the past several years and they are finally receiving the rave reviews and glowing press they deserve. We wholeheartedly agree with Allen Meadows when he says “2021 is a vintage that very much suits the Arlaud style of refinement and energy.” Of course all the attention means they’re quite limited!
Cyprian’s parcel in this famous Grand Cru is in the Mazoyères section, and he has three blocks of vines that are 25, 50, and 80 years old. Each parcel is vinified and aged separately, and the “young” 25 year old vines are generally declassified into other wines. Charmes-Chambertin is known as one of the most powerful and long lived wines in Burgundy, and therefore is one of the most impressive Pinot Noirs in the world. But Cyprian’s delicate touch, combined with the old school elegance of 2021, offers added layers of finesse and perfume. This is definitely not a wine you should unlock before at least five years of age (and only then with a very long decant), and really 15 to 20 years is when it will start to show its truly dazzling display of colors.