Jean-Michel Deiss drives the French wine authorities crazy. In a region where single-variety wines have been law since the 1960s, Deiss looked at his vineyards and said, “This is wrong.” His epiphany came when an old vigneron on his deathbed entrusted him with Schoenenbourg, one of Alsace's greatest sites, planted the ancient way—multiple varieties growing together, ripening together, in harmony.
That discovery changed everything. Deiss realized that Alsace's modern laws had destroyed centuries of wisdom. Before bureaucrats decided Riesling must grow alone, Alsatian farmers planted their vineyards like orchestras—each variety an instrument contributing to the whole. Deiss began ripping out his monovariety plantings and replanting them the old way, with up to 13 varieties cohabitating in what he calls “complantation.”
The authorities were not thrilled. Field blends were considered primitive, suitable only for cheap wine. But Deiss knew better. When Pinot Blanc grows next to Riesling next to Muscat, their roots intertwine, they communicate, they adapt to each other. They bud together, flower together, ripen together. The vineyard becomes a living ecosystem and an alchemy unfolds.
For his Complantation bottling, Deiss works multiple parcels around Bergheim, all on clay-limestone soils. The exact variety mix is the Alsatian kitchen sink: Pinot Blanc, Gris, and Noir; Riesling and Gewurztraminer; Sylvaner and both Muscats; even ancient varieties like Chasselas Rose and Pinot Beurot. Everything planted between 8,000 vines per hectare, farmed biodynamically since before biodynamics was in fashion.
Today, son Mathieu works alongside Jean-Michel, continuing the revolution. They've even created their own sweetness scale based on perception rather than sugar levels, because conventional thinking has never been their strong suit. This 2022 registers as “tender”: essentially dry but with pleasing richness on the palate.
WHY YOU'LL LOVE IT
Symphonic White: Single varieties are soloists, whereas Deiss's field blends are full orchestras. Thirteen varieties create flavors and textures impossible to achieve with monoculture—grapefruit, lychee, honeysuckle, and minerals, all interwoven seamlessly.
Biodynamic Pioneer: Before every hipster winery went biodynamic, Deiss was stirring cow horns and planting by moon phases. The vitality in these wines comes from decades of living soil.
Michelin-Starred Fans: Eleven Madison Park, Saison, Dirty French—when the world's best sommeliers need to blow minds, they pour Deiss. There's a reason he's on every great list.
The Anti-Alsace Alsace: While others make textbook Riesling and Gewurz, Deiss makes wine that tastes like Bergheim limestone. Variety is just the vehicle, and terroir is the destination.
HOW TO SERVE IT
Serve at 48-50°F—cool enough to preserve the aromatic complexity but not so cold you miss the texture. This wine has too much to say to serve ice-cold.
Drink now through 2032. Field blends age unpredictably but beautifully, developing honeyed notes while maintaining their kaleidoscopic fruit character.
Perfect with Asian fusion, shellfish, or anything with ginger and citrus. The wine's complexity means it works with flavors that would clash with simpler whites. Also ideal with soft cheeses like a nicely-ripened Munster.
