Seekers of top-tier Brunellos and Super Tuscans need to take a pause and note and buy a three-pack of a legendary wine in the making—the 2020 Rocca di Montegrossi "San Marcellino." To understand the gravity of this bottling, one must first acknowledge the Ricasoli-Firidolfi name. Proprietor Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi is the direct descendant of Baron Bettino Ricasoli, the "Iron Baron" who created the original recipe for Chianti Classico in the 19th century. While the family’s historical seat at Brolio Castle remains a landmark, Marco’s work in the high-altitude hamlet of Monti in Chianti is where the soul of the region currently resides. In the eyes of critics like Antonio Galloni, this is one of the "brightest stars" in Italy, producing wines that don’t just compete with the region's icons—they often surpass them in sheer pedigree.

The "San Marcellino" vineyard, anchored by a prized 11th-century church, is the crown jewel of the estate. Classified as Gran Selezione—a designation designed to reclaim the prestige lost to IGT "Super Tuscans"—this wine represents the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico banner. Galloni’s long-standing love affair with this bottling was cemented during a landmark 2018 vertical tasting, where he noted that since its debut in 1995, San Marcellino has consistently showcased an "extraordinary level of depth and dimension." By utilizing a long aging regimen of over four years in barrel and bottle, Marco crafts a wine that captures the "essence of site and vintage" with a power that is always moderated by a signature, polished elegance.

The 2020 vintage has arrived with a soaring 96-point pedigree, further validating the estate's position at the top of its game. The secret lies in the unique soils of Gaiole—a mix of calcium-rich alberese and shaly galestro—combined with a small "dollop" of the rare indigenous Pugnitello grape. This ancient variety provides a deep, ink-like color and a fleshy texture that perfectly complements the high-toned, structural intensity of Sangiovese. The result is a wine of significant verticality; it is muscular and built for the cellar, yet it possesses a silky, aristocratic refinement that immediately lures the serious collector who demands the complexity of a world-class red.

Tasting Note: In the glass, the 2020 "San Marcellino" displays a concentrated ruby-purple hue. The bouquet is a masterclass in Tuscan complexity, offering layers of black cherry, crushed minerals, leather, and wild medicinal herbs, all framed by a "kiss" of sophisticated oak. On the palate, the wine is powerful yet remarkably poised. Firm, fine-grained tannins support a core of dark fruit, forest floor, and a hint of balsamic spice. It is exceptionally clean and resonant, finishing with the vibrant acidity typical of Gaiole’s high-altitude woods. While stunning now with a long decant, its track record in vertical tastings proves this will evolve gracefully for two decades or more.

Molte Grazie!

Critical Acclaim:

96 Points, Vinous Media:

• The 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcellino is a dense, powerful wine. Black cherry, scorched earth, tobacco, licorice and incense showcase the darker, brooding side of Sangiovese. Readers will want to cellar the 2020 for at least a few years. Its relatively plush contours should start to soften by then. It's a stellar wine, one with a very bright future. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous