As the world’s elite athletes chase glory in the medal rounds of the Winter Olympics, we are turning our attention to a wine that has long secured its place on the gold podium of Italian viticulture: Heinrich Mayr’s 2020 Nusserhof Südtirol Lagrein “Riserva.” While the biathlon competitors are testing their precision in Anterselva—just a scenic 62-mile drive from the estate—Mayr works a historic, 2.4-hectare green oasis that stands as a defiant "post-modern anomaly" against the urban encroachment of Bolzano. This is a flagship bottling from a family that has tended these vines since 1788, surviving centuries of political upheaval and modern urbanization to remain the final vestige of the city’s ancient agricultural soul.
Heinrich Mayr is a legendary vintner not just for his technical skill, but for his role as a steward of history and biodiversity. The estate’s survival is a testament to the Mayr family’s deep roots; it is widely believed the vineyard was spared from development only because of its association with Josef Mayr-Nusser, a relative and martyr who famously resisted the Nazi regime. Today, Heinrich, Elda, and their daughter Gloria farm these low-yielding, 40-year-old vines organically, crafting wines through low-intervention methods without temperature control. The result is a wine of profound soul and structural integrity that demands the same respect as a Grand Cru Burgundy or a top-tier Barolo.
On the palate, this Lagrein Riserva is a masterclass in Alpine elegance, unfolding with concentrated layers of crushed blackberries, violets, and a distinctively savory streak of smoked meat and forest floor. The architecture is framed by firm, velvety tannins and a bracing acidity that carries the dark fruit through a long, mineral-drenched finish that leaves you reaching for another glass. It is a complex, brooding red that perfectly captures the rugged beauty of the Alto Adige, offering a sensory experience that is both wild and impeccably refined.
This 2020 Riserva spent 2.5 years in oak followed by significant bottle aging to reach its current state of peak performance, earning a stellar 93 points from Eric Guido of Vinous Media. Guido praises its savory character, noting its impeccable balance and depth. For those who curate cellars filled with the world’s most storied and structured reds, this is an essential acquisition. Secure your share of this historic Alpine treasure today and celebrate the legacy of a family that continues to champion the indigenous spirit of the Südtirol.
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Critical Acclaim:
93 Points, Vinous Media:
“The 2020 Lagrein Riserva is at first dark and brooding, as swirling unlocks a mix of mentholated herbs, pine shavings and ground cloves, elevating dried black cherries. This splashes across the palate with soft textures and tart red and blue fruits as a wiry core of acidity adds tension within and hints of spiced orange pinch at the cheeks. The 2020 leaves a slightly chewy, gently tannic saturation.” - Eric Guido, December 2025
