If you were to take the ethereal elegance of a Grand Cru Burgundy and marry it to the structural power of a Hermitage Syrah, you would arrive at the 2018 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez, Bierzo Tinto “El Cerro de Valdecañada”
This is, quite simply, one of the most profound expressions of Mencía ever produced. Crafted by the "visionary genius" Raúl Pérez, this wine hails from a singular, north-facing plot of less than one hectare perched at 800 meters. These are 100+ year-old centenarian vines—a true field blend of Mencía, Bastardo (Trousseau), and Garnacha Tintorera rooted in high-altitude granite and schist.
The production of El Cerro defies traditional red wine logic. Raúl Pérez employs a staggering six-month post-fermentation maceration with 100% whole bunches, followed by a year of aging in neutral barriques under a veil of flor. This rare technique, typically reserved for oxidative whites, imparts a savory, saline depth and a breathtakingly pure mineral profile. The result is an unadulterated expression of site that stands as a definitive benchmark for the "New Spain."
With a global production of only 600 bottles (the output of just three barrels), this is a true "unicorn" wine. It is an essential find for those who seek out low-yielding Spanish gems and have a soft spot for the structure and finesse of the Northern Rhône and the Côte d’Or.
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Vineyard: A miniscule (<1ha) north-facing site at 800m ASL.
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Soil: Schist, slate, and granite.
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Production: Extremely limited; only 600 bottles produced for the world.
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Service: The 2018 vintage is blossoming beautifully; we recommend decanting for 60 to 90 minutes and serving in large Burgundy bowls to fully unlock its layered aromatics.
97 Points, Wine Advocate:
“There were three barrels of the 2018 El Cerro de Valdecañada, which has the rusty nail and iron character of the Valdecañadas, with notes of fresh meat and blood, austere but with more elegance. It reflects the cold character of the vintage. There are 600 bottles of this vintage.” - Luis Gutiérrez, Jan. 2022