The Taurasi region of Campania, and the slopes of Monte Vulture area in neighboring Basilicata—Italy’s two key Aglianico growing zones—are holy places for Italian wine lovers. And, much as we appreciate the “big” wines from these regions, their less-heavily-oaked siblings hold considerable appeal. One could say the same about the great reds of Montalcino and Barolo: Sometimes you get a less obstructed view of the grape and place in the Rosso di Montalcino, or the Langhe Nebbiolo (at least in the near term, anyway, and for a lot less money). This Aglianico from Tenuta Scutto is exactly the kind of “little brother” wine we’re talking about: The fruit hails from the area around Taurasi, in Campania’s Irpinia region, but it is aged just 12 months and only in stainless steel tanks—no wood.
Eduardo Scuotto and his son, Adolfo, founded Tenuta Scuotto in 2009 and have focused exclusively on the traditional varieties of the region: Fiano, Greco, Falanghina, and Aglianico. The winery is based in Lapio, near Avellino (a noted subzone for the white Fiano), and while the estate is not Certified Organic, it employs sustainable practices in its vineyards, including Integrated Pest Management.
This bottling is 100% Aglianico from 15- to 20-year-old vines, hand-harvested and fermented in stainless steel tanks. Maceration on skins last for 12 days (Aglianico is a notoriously tannic variety, so even a short maceration produces a wine with noticeable grip and a deep, inky hue) and the finished wine is aged in stainless steel for 6 months before bottling.
In the glass, it’s an opaque ruby-black with hints of purple at the rim, with heady aromas of crushed blackberry, black plum, espresso grounds, lavender, iron shavings, black pepper, and underbrush. Medium-plus in body, with firm, dusty tannins reminiscent of the Malbec-based reds of Cahors, this is a brooding and deeply mineral red but also a complex and floral wine showing great balance of fruit and earth components. Red meats and baked pastas are the pairings to go with here.
