Obviously, we taste a lot of wines around here. And let me just say, without naming names, that some wines are meant to be ‘tasted,’ and some wines are meant to be drunk. This wine is the latter. I taste certain wines and think, Well, this is very impressive, but I don’t want to drink a lot of it.

Then there are wines that—like this one—whet my appetite and enliven my senses without weighing me down. The word ‘drinkable’ may sound a little ridiculous, but it is apt: this 2015 Chablis from the tiny domaine of Agnès and Didier Dauvissat is a wine to drink, not deliberate. It’s all charm, no pretense, and I find myself craving it (and others like it) more often than just about any other. I will also add that this wine has all the assets to last a decade or more in the cellar, and at this price-to-quality, you can’t go wrong.

And while I’d definitely call it ‘textbook,’ I wouldn’t call it ordinary: there is definite breed here, which is to be expected from the 2015 vintage, and it definitely needs some air to show its best. It’s a classic greenish-gold in the glass, with aromas of lemon blossom, green peach pit, green apple and a rather pronounced oyster shell salinity. I’d love to have it turn up in a blind tasting: it is unmistakably Chablis, still somewhat austere in its youth but, as mentioned above, built for the table. It should really hit its stride a year or two from now when it has had the chance to put on a little weight, but if you’re cracking one now give it an hour or so in a decanter before consuming at around cellar temperature. Pair it with a roasted whole fish with lots of lemon and revel in the simple perfection of that combination.