The age of triple digit pricing on village level White Burgundy seem, sadly, here to stay. It feels like many years now since I’ve encountered a Puligny, Chassagne, or Meursault for a cool $50. What to do? I look to the edges of Burgundy–areas just outside those famous addresses that boast the same excellent terroir. Santaney is a prime example. Just a couple miles down the road from the Montrachet Grand Crus, this village is mostly known for its bright, earthy Pinots, but there is a tiny amount of Chardonnay here too. And with a couple of those prime parcels the team at Remoissenet has crafted a super elegant, mineral laden, finely etched delight that could easily fool a good Somm into thinking it was Puligny-Montrachet. And guess what, the price is right on the money!
The Remoissenet cellar is not only a de facto museum of Burgundian history—connected by ancient brick and mortar to the medieval fortress wall that surrounds Beaune—it’s a modern, ambitious winery that’s been on a sharp upward trajectory for the better part of two decades now. Surely the stellar 2022 vintage helped, but this Santenay Blanc is exactly the kind of wine a property with Remoissenet’s credentials can and does deliver—namely, one with more depth, complexity, and polish than is typically expected from this category. This bottle will go toe to toe with the top village level White Burgundy, at a price that reminds me of what you used to expect 15 years ago; it’s definitely one to grab by the case and re-visit often.
Remoissenet makes a very large range of wines—both estate-grown and négociant (i.e. purchased fruit) bottlings. The property is perhaps better-known for its historic négociant operation, and the trove of wines from every appellation imaginable that still resides in those caves in Beaune is a sight to behold. Truth be told, the house’s reputation had slipped a bit in the 1980s and ‘90s, but the arrival of a new ownership group in 2005 helped set it on a new course. They’ve strengthened their relationships with their many contract growers, keeping a closer eye on both quality and sustainable farming practices, while managing their own estate vineyards (about 32 acres, most of which are in Beaune) according to biodynamic principles. And they have a wine dream team at the helm: Pierre-Antoine Rovani’s charisma, tasting acumen, and deep knowledge blends perfectly with winemaker Claudie Jobard’s ‘non-interventionist’ approach.
The 2022 Santenay Blanc (a wine that represents just 5% of the village output, which is focused almost exclusively on Pinot Noir) is good to go with just a quick splash decant. Serve cool, not ice cold, in a nice Burgundy stem–in other words give this beauty the full Monty (aka Montrachet treatment). A classic aromatic profile of green and yellow apples, white blossoms, honeysuckle, roasted almonds, lemon curd, baking spice, and wet rocks leads to perfectly balanced, medium-bodied palate that is clean and crisp but with a long, mineral finish. Serve with fatty fishes, shellfish in cream sauce, or citrus marinated chicken. If you like to have top tier White Burgundy on hand at all times (but don’t want to pay through the roof for it) this is your ticket to paradise!
