Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: The best Cru Beaujolais (very unlike the mass-produced plonk at the grocery store) gets better with a few years of age. Yes, we’ve hammered this point home over the years, but that’s because it is sooo true. If you’re still not convinced though, don’t worry, I’ve got the perfect bottle for you to discover that revelatory magic that happens at around year four or five when the up-front Gamay fruit starts to blend harmoniously with dried flowers, herbs, and savory, earth minerals. And you don’t need to reach deep into your pockets for this sublime experience–today’s soaring 2019 from the tiny cru of Saint-Amour clocks in at less than $30. The amount of complexity and elegance for the money here is astounding; load up!
The tiny domaine of Sources D’Agape is not, by any means, historic, and certainly not by the standard metrics in France where estates trace their roots in centuries. This little outpost was founded in 2019 by then 28 year old Arthur Lotrous, who had cobbled together six hectares of vines via some familial connections. Arthur was originally training to be a physicist when he switched gears entirely and decided that he wanted to work outdoors, in the vines, and make wine. Turns out he had a gift for farming and cellar work, and his first vintage was a smashing success.
It helps that the vineyards he acquired contain 60 plus year old vines of Gamay planted in prime terroir. Saint-Amour is the northernmost cru of Beaujolais, sitting right at the border with the Mâcon, and it is distinct for having more sandstone and limestone than the typical granite, and therefore producing wines that are less crunchy and fruity, and more elegant, even “Burgundian.” That tendency is even more apparent once these wines have a bit of bottle age. Indeed, I would be hard pressed to blind the 2019 “Côte de Besset” as a Cru Beaujolais–more likely I would call it a good village Burgundy from Savigny or Volnay.
The only significant difference is oak. Arthur ages his Saint-Amour in cement and steel tanks only, eschewing any barrel influence. Farming has been organic from the beginning (he’s in the process of certification now), and all the fruit from this tiny, half of a hectare vineyard is hand-harvested before undergoing partial carbonic maceration. Serve this lovely, floral Gamay at a cool 55-60 degrees in Burgundy stems, no decanting is necessary. Sweet cherries, crushed raspberries, and pomegranate mingle with dried roses, wild thyme, lavender, orange peel, and wet earth. The palate is soft and elegant, full of mineral earthiness and finishing with a dollop of bright acidity. Pair with any range of poultry or game birds–the recipe below for duck confit with three peppers would be sublime!
