European grape vines have been planted and farmed in Sonoma County for over 150 years, but the focus on Pinot Noir is relatively new, going back just a few decades with pioneers like Joe Swan, Rochioli, Martinelli, and Hirsch planting new vineyards in the 1970s and ‘80s. And there’s still plenty of room for newcomers! Montagne Russe is a perfect example: Kevin Bersofsky started making wine in his Napa garage in 2006, but it wasn’t until 2015 that his label became official, and his focus on cool climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah from Sonoma was solidified. Today his wines are quietly gaining a following as well as garnering numerous accolades. This is truly a tiny, garagiste style operation that is very much on the rise, and we’re delighted to introduce you to them. Oh, and the value is still extraordinary–grab some before that changes!
Kevin Bersofsky began making wine in his garage from some fruit he got from friends back in 2006. In 2013 the Feds shut down his unlicensed operation, and in 2015 he returned with all the necessary permits to make it official. “Montagne Russe” is a reference to the “russian mountains,” the term the French used for the earliest roller coasters–an apt name since Kevin was briefly a coaster engineer, and given the crazy ride he took to making wine! Though he sources from multiple different AVA’s, his primary focus are some top tier parcels in the Sonoma Coast AVA. This is the largest in Sonoma County, stretching from the San Pablo Bay and Petaluma Wind Gap in the south, all the way to the border with Mendocino in the north. This area has a wide range of soils, topography, and micro-climates. For his Sonoma Coast cuvée, Kevin sources from a handful of vineyards that meet his rigorous standards for farming and for truly “cool climate” locations.
The goal at Montagne Russe is to allow the pristine Sonoma fruit and cool climate terroir to shine through, unencumbered by additions and manipulations in the cellar. The Pinot bunches are partially de-stemmed and gently crushed before undergoing a slow, cool fermentation. The finished wine is then racked into French oak barrels, just 10% of which are new, to age for 15 months before being bottled with a very light filtration.
Serve this elegant, medium-bodied Pinot Noir in a large Burgundy stem at around 55-60 degrees. The bright, garnet hue turns to translucent orange-pink at the rim, and the first whiff is loaded with ripe raspberries, crushed strawberries, kirsch, dried roses, lavender, bay laurel, cedar, and damp earth. There’s just the right amount of tannin and good, bracing finish of acidity and saline minerals. King salmon grilled over mesquite chips would be a classic pairing, but a plate of duck confit tacos would do just fine too.
