Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is one of those rare wines that defies simple categorization. Yes, it’s technically a rosato, but the best versions have so much structure, depth, and savory complexity that they can easily take the place of a lighter red. The most famous version is that of Valentini, and those bottles easily fetch into the triple digits. It’s a remarkable wine, but here’s a little secret: I like today’s brand new discovery from de Sterlich better! From a small, two person estate that is just a few years old, this vibrant, magenta hued wine is bursting with wild strawberries, rosewater, and tons of earthy, spicy complexity. It’s a genre busting, deliciously untamed wine that easily bridges seasons, meals, and almost any occasion. In truth you really must try this wine to believe it, and then you’ll want to have cases of it on hand at all times!
Tenuta de Sterlich was founded way back in 2017 by two enterprising friends, Roberto Fracassa and Alessandro Massacesi, who grew up in the nearby “city” of Teramo. The name of the estate is a tribute to Roberto’s ancestors who came to the region from Austria 500 years ago. The last relative to carry that name was Diego de Sterlich, a renowned winemaker, bon vivant and racing enthusiast who helped establish the Maserati brand. Roberto’s father, no slouch himself, founded a very successful salumeria whose products are coveted throughout Italy and beyond, and through him he became acquainted with one Professore Seghetti, a highly regarded enologist who was a consultant for many years at . . . Valentini! The Professore continues to work with Roberto and Alessandro to this day.
The estate sits on 23 hectares of pristine land in the Abruzzi hills, nestled between the Adriatic and the Gran Sasso mountains. There are 19 hectares of vineyards here, the oldest of which date back to 1960, mostly planted to Montepulciano, Pecorino, and Trebbiano but also a bit of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Roberto and Alessandro have always farmed the entire property using organic and biodynamic methods, and will soon be certified biodynamic. The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is definitely their flagship cuvée, but a small amount of fruit is set aside every year to make today’s mind bending Cerasuolo.
Everything at De Sterlich is hand harvested, and for the Cerasuolo the fruit is de-stemmed before undergoing 24 hours of skin contact and a wild yeast fermentation in cement tanks. That extra bit of skin contact is what gives this Cerasuolo its shimmering magenta hue with hints of blood orange at the rim. Serve cool to cold: it will be crisp and refreshing at 48-50 degrees and then gain depth, complexity, and savory spice as it warms up. Notes of wild strawberries, crushed raspberries, dried roses, fennel, sage, orange zest, white pepper, and damp earth surround a mineral, salty core that finishes dusty and dry with just a tiny hint of tannin. It’s so versatile: a classic pairing is a spread of charcuterie, aged sheep's milk cheeses, olives and pickled vegetables, but don’t stop there as it is also perfect for pulled pork, carne asada, tuna crudo, any iteration of pizza, or go super traditional with some Abruzzese lamb skewers, aka arrosticini. The world is your oyster–oh ya, it would be great with barbecued oysters too!
