Long time devotées of White Burgundy often assume that all the great wines and estates have long since been discovered, and even if you still have access to these icons the prices are eye-popping. But do not despair! Burgundy is a large region and there are still gems waiting to be discovered, especially in overlooked villages like Rully. That’s where you’ll find Christophe Grandmougin, overseeing an 18th century winery that sits atop a 13th century cellar. His Domaine Saint-Jacques is brand new to the U.S., but I would put good money on his becoming another Burgundy superstar within a few years time. Tasting his top Premier Cru Cuvée, “Stellaris Campus,” immediately reminds you of Olivier Lamy or Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey circa 2010. No joke, this is a seriously impressive bottle. Do not miss this ground floor opportunity!
In order to understand the various names involved in today’s discovery we need to dip a toe into European history, and as is often the case that includes the Roman Catholic church and at least one saint. Domaine Saint-Jacques is an estate that dates back well into the early medieval period, and was most notable then as a host for pilgrims making the journey to Saint-Jacques de Compostelle in Spain, aka the Camino Santiago, one of the most famous pilgrimages in Christendom. Though the original building has been rebuilt several times, the original cellar is still in existence and houses the barrels that Christophe-Jean Grandmougin uses for aging his wines.
Christophe himself is the second generation of his family to oversee the vineyards and winemaking. His father, Christophe Amédé, purchased the domaine in 1955 and helped re-establish its historical acclaim before handing it over to his son in 1991. Today Christophe-Jean is joined by his children as they continue to improve and rejuvenate the property while still maintaining its direct connection to the earliest days of the Burgundian wine trade. Perhaps the most important update has been the implementation of organic farming practices throughout the nine hectares of estate vineyards.
Domaine Saint-Jacques is almost entirely devoted to the appellation of Rully, a somewhat overlooked commune that sits on the northern edge of the Côte Chalonnaise. Though we’re just a couple miles south of the epicenter of world class Chardonnay–Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet, somehow this commune has managed to fly under the radar, but that’s changing. Aubert de Villaine (of DRC) has invested pretty heavily here, and with Christophe’s wines finally entering the U.S. market, Rully is poised to gain the attention it rightfully deserves.
Most of Domaine Saint-Jacques vineyards are designated Premier Cru, but his top cuvée is the “Stellaris Campus,” which is essentially a special selection “reserve” made from the best fruit harvested from the crus of “La Fosse” and “Marissou.” Christophe ferments and ages the pristine Chardonnay bunches in a combination of stainless steel and barrique (about 1/3rd new), and he is very much working in the more precise, chiseled, slightly reductive style made famous by the likes of Lafon and Roulot. Serve this exceptionally balanced and refined white in large Burgundy bowls at around 50 to 55 degrees after a vigorous decant to allow the flinty, smoky notes to integrate fully and mingle with classic aromas of yellow apple, lemon curd, hazelnut, white flowers, honeysuckle, and wet rocks. The palate is taught and mineral, but with increased exposure to oxygen the texture grows richer and more complex. It’s drinking very well already, but certainly this is built to age and will gain even more weight and depth after several years in the cellar. And if you have the patience you can pull out bottles in five or ten years and tell everyone what a great deal you got before Domaine Saint-Jacques became all the rage!
