Keen-eyed readers will notice a theme developing here in the world of Daily Discoveries—namely, that we’re leaning into the “satellite” appellations of Bordeaux’s Right Bank in a major way. Following our recent visit to Montagne Saint-Émilion, we’re back with a wine from even more desirable real estate: Lalande-de-Pomerol. We always snap to attention when a wine from this appellation comes our way, because when you look at the short distance between a relatively unknown château like Fleur d'Eymerits and some of the most rarefied, culty properties on earth (i.e. Pétrus; Le Pin), you can’t square it with the massive price gulfs that exist. Then you taste a wine like today’s 2019 and your mind is definitively blown. The upshot? Serve this well-structured, impeccably balanced beauty from the tiny Château Fleur d'Eymerits to that friend who claims to “hate” Merlot (just don’t tell them it’s 100% Merlot before you pour it). This wine is poised to win hearts and minds, at a price that is not to be believed. Jump on it!
Lalande-de-Pomerol is indeed one of Bordeaux’s greatest “satellite” appellations, with vineyards that climb right up next to some of the priciest real estate in the world (the neighboring appellation of Pomerol, home to Pétrus et. al.). Château Fleur d'Eymerits farms just 1.3 hectares of wines in the northwestern part of the Lalande-de-Pomerol appellation, where soils contain more sand and gravel than the clay-heavy soils of Pomerol, and this 2019 shows off a very mineral and, yes, “gravelly” side of Merlot (we could have been fooled into thinking it was from the Left Bank had we not been staring at the label when tasting).
Usually when “Bordeaux” is mentioned, one’s mind goes immediately to images of grand châteaux surrounded by perfectly manicured vineyards and gardens—but in Vincent LaGrave’s case, the vibe is that of a small family farm. Lagrave, a former rugby player, is an old school, hands-on vigneron and he’s in the process of renovating a building on-site using scaffolding constructed from used wine pallets.
Today’s 2019 is 100% Merlot from sustainably farmed vineyards in the lieu-dits (geographic subzones) “Eymerit” and “Coudreau,” in the northern part of the Lalande-de-Pomerol appellation. Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel, with a “cold soak” of the fruit preceding the alcoholic fermentation. Aging lasts 12-14 months in French oak barriques of assorted sizes (there’s no indication as to the percentage of new oak, though the wine tastes as if some new oak is used).
Serve this in Bordeaux stems, at around 60 degrees, and you’ll be treated to a dense violet-ruby hue and aromas of black cherries, purple plum, violets, lavender, leather, cigar box, tobacco leaf, mint, and cocoa powder. The rich, red-black fruit is balanced perfectly by saline, iodine-like minerals and hints of earth and toasty oak. Its powerful tannic structure bodes well for aging (a decade-plus isn’t out of the question), but you can enjoy it right now as well. Your favorite roasts or stews would be perfect companions, as would a classic steakhouse burger. Just don’t miss this one—it’s Bordeaux value at its best!
