Here’s a little bonus offer for the thrill-seekers out there. Sadly, there’s not much of this electrifying white to go around, but the lucky few who get some are hitting upon an Old World white wine benchmark on par with all the better-known global greats. It’s from Hungary, which may seem like a “new” frontier, but in fact, it’s one of Europe’s oldest wine cultures. Further, this 2019 is produced by a living legend, Fekete Béla, the “Grand Old Man of Somló,” a nonagenarian whose every word is treated as gospel. Saying that this mineral-rich white from the native Juhfark (YOU-fark) grape is “special” doesn’t begin to cover it. Today’s 2019 is Fekete’s current release: the wine spent one year in ancient Hungarian barrels, two in stainless steel, and one more in bottle. All this time, it remains untouched, allowing nature to run its course on this untamed, high-intensity grape. The result is spectacular, even a bit shocking—like a blast of ice-cold water to the face—but it’s an experience that cannot be ignored. You’ll geek out over this, guaranteed! 

Every enchanting wine Fekete Béla has crafted over the decades (they age for decades, too) has elevated the stature of the microscopic appellation of Somló. After the 2015 vintage, he retired and passed the torch to a new generation, but he didn’t fully step away—he can still be found assisting, tasting,