If you’d like a one-stop master class on aromatic, meaty, old-school Châteauneuf-du-Pape, you go to Clos du Mont-Olivet. Run by generations of the Sabon family since 1932, and headquartered in a stone house that overlooks the ancient papal castle that gave the town its name, Mont-Olivet is the equivalent of a Châteauneuf winemaking museum.

2011 is a sneaky great vintage in the Southern Rhône Valley. Because 2010 was such a generationally great vintage in much of France, and 2011 very challenging, the assumption is that it was the same story everywhere, but not so in Châteauneuf. Most winemakers consider 2011 to be on equal footing with 2010, and many prefer it. Theirry Sabon and the team at Mont-Olivet did their usual bang up job, and this wine is starting to really blossom as it passes a decade of age in the bottle. With a quick decant, and service in Burgundy stems at around 60 degrees, you’ll be gifted a bevy of black currants, red plums, cherry liqueur, peppercorn, wild herbs, crushed violets, and holiday spices. It’s in a prime spot now, but will easily continue to improve for another five plus years.