If possible most of us at SommSelect would drink Champagne every single day, and we think many of you would too. Indeed, the only barrier to ending every work day, and starting every weekend, with a glass of beautiful, tiny bubbles is that hardly any are priced for daily consumption. But today’s discovery begs to differ! A small-production Blanc de Noirs of 100% Pinot Noir, from classic terroir in the famed Côte des Bar, that is made meticulously by a time-honored estate. Delicious, blue-chip Champagne, priced for any occasion: What’s not to love? It’s Friday evening and we think you should start the weekend off with a bang by stocking up on this limited time deal. Grab a bunch and set yourself up for Champagne bliss that will last the rest of the year!
The picturesque village of Les Riceys lies in the heart of Champagne’s Côte des Bar, in the southernmost outpost of this world famous wine region. In fact, the commune is closer to Dijon, in Burgundy, than Reims. Here, in a beautiful 17th Century cottage, you’ll find the small Guy de Forez estate, where François and Sylvie Wenner farm 9.5 hectares of grapes and produce a range of classically styled Champagnes. The Côte des Bar gets more sunshine and warmth than its northerly neighbors, and as such, Pinot Noir is king here. Fun fact: Les Riceys is the only village in Champagne with three AOCs: one for Champagne proper; another for still reds known as Côteaux Champenois; and Rosé de Riceys, a local pink specialty known for its deep, savory style.
The Wenners, who are now joined by their sons, Sebastian and Vincent, make all the Riceys variations, but their calling card and the flagship of the estate is the Brut Tradition. Though not labeled as such, this is a true Blanc de Noirs of 100% Pinot Noir, a fact that is easily ascertained by the beautiful, rose gold tint that comes shining through in the glass. To achieve their preferred style, the Guy de Forez team spends countless hours in the vineyard. They are certified sustainable, or lutte raisonnée, and they keep yields well below the legal maximum in order to achieve their desired levels of ripeness and concentration. In the cellar, the Brut Tradition is fermented and aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks, and no malolactic fermentation is allowed. After bottling and secondary fermentation, the wine is aged for 30 months on its fine lees before disgorgement.
The current release of Brut Tradition is based on the 2018 vintage, a warm, dry, and generally excellent year throughout Champagne. The inherent power of the vintage plays perfectly with the house style at Guy de Forez, and the result is a richly layered, mouth-filling wine that is perfectly balanced by bright acidity and hints of tannin. Serve chilled, at around 45 to 50 degrees, in an all-purpose glass, and you’ll be walloped by loads of rich, red berry fruit, rose petals, blood orange, rhubarb, white peach, and hints of dried porcini. The up-front power gives way to elegant, saline minerality that lingers on the palate. To be blunt: There is a ton of wine for the money here! The ample fruit makes it a lovely apéritif, but it really shines at the table. Try it with your favorite Thai or Vietnamese dishes and you’ll be floored by the result. It’s also perfect for a dinner of passed canapés, essentially this is your go-to house Champagne, so stock up now.
