Viognier is not on the tip of most wine enthusiasts tongues. That might be literal, given the French pronunciation (vee own yay), but it’s also just not an easy grape to grow or make. However, when Viognier is grown in the right place—and Condrieu, of course, is its spiritual home—its balance of honeyed texture, exotic aromas, and sunny acidity makes for one of the most memorable white wine experiences around. So yes, there’s not a ton of Viognier in the world, and what is available can be either too fat and/or sweet, or lacking in the exotic, floral laced perfume that makes it special, but when you get a pitch-perfect Condrieu it can be transcendent. The only rub there is that these wines have become quite pricey. The answer? A wine made by Condrieu experts from vines just outside the official appellation. It checks every box for great Viognier, and costs a fraction of the price. This is a wine that everyone can and should experience!
Christophe Picon took the helm at his family’s estate back in 1991. Since then he has expanded their holdings of Syrah in places like Saint-Joseph and the general Rhône VDP, but Condrieu remains the appellation where they have the largest percentage of vines. Indeed, Christophe is a two term president of the Condrieu Appellation, having taken over for the great Georges Vernay. Today Christophe’s sons Corentin and Alexis are generally in charge of this small but excellent and traditional estate.
As mentioned, Viognier can be low in acidity owing to the extended hang time on the vine that is often required for its full aromatic range to emerge, so there’s always the danger of skewing a little fat and sweet. Balance is key, and as such the Pichons stay true to their course and push the vines to produce powerful but balanced grapes before harvesting by hand and fermenting with natural yeasts. Their IGP Collines Rhodaniennes Viognier is sourced from vines that are a literal stones-throw to the NW of the Condrieu appellation border. The soil here is almost pure granite and this allows them to make a wine with all the exotic perfume of Condrieu, and yet it is a bit fresher and more mineral driven. The fruit is hand-harvested, fermented with native yeasts, and then the finished wine is aged entirely in used barriques before being bottled with the lightest possible filtration.
The result is a superbly balanced wine without sacrificing any of the rich texture that makes Viognier so hedonistic and satisfying. Let the wine breathe in the glass for a few minutes and marvel at the cushion of scent that develops—a pillow of orchard fruit and exotic floral notes that transport you to the Rhône’s baked terraces. The wine is a limped green-tinged straw-gold in the glass, with above average viscosity. Intense pear, white nectarine, and meyer lemon rind take precedence on the palate, highlighted by zestier notes of ginger. The structure is what’s most surprising here: Pichon's Viognier is mineral, taut, and has an impressively long finish. It actually makes your mouth water—easily one of the most energetic and full-bodied whites in France! A whiff of violet pastilles lingers like perfume on the finish and sticks in the imagination. This beauty can be enjoyed without food, but will do equally well with grilled tuna belly, lightly seasoned with fresh lemon juice and herbs.
