Kudos to the Tuscan winery La Mozza for saying so much about the wine in this bottle just by the color selection for the label: According to experts, the Mammolo grape takes its name from viola mammola (“violet”), and there are both visual and aromatic markers in the wine that explain why. Thought to be native to the Tuscan coast, and found on the island of Corsica (where it is known as Sciaccarellu) as well, the variety, according to Native Wine Grapes of Italy author Ian D’Agata, “…is found nowhere else in Italy but Tuscany, and even in this region less than 100 hectares are planted.” Although it is mostly known as a blending grape, La Mozza felt the results they were getting with it merited a “varietal” showcase bottling—and we’re so glad they did!
Historically, the Maremma encompassed a stretch of coastline running from Pisa, in Tuscany, all the way down to Rome. The areas closest to the coast were dominated by wetlands, but following the First World War most of these were drained and repurposed for large scale agriculture. This wine is from the province of Grosseto, the heartland of the Maremma region. Soils are richer in clay, loam, and sandstone than those further inland, and it’s a drier, hotter “maritime” climate in comparison to that of Central Tuscany.
The La Mozza winery is owned by Italian-American restaurateurs and television personalities Joe and Lidia Bastianich. The property is in the municipality of Magliano in Toscana and includes 16 hectares of sustainably farmed vineyards, which are planted not just to Sangiovese (a.k.a. Morellino) but Ciliegiolo, Mammolo, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, and other local and “international” varieties.
Hand-harvested grapes were completely destemmed and fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, with maceration on skins lasting roughly two weeks. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in stainless steel before its transfer to second-use 500-liter French oak tonneaux barrels for 12 months. Another eight months of bottle aging followed, prior to the wine’s commercial release.
Experienced tasters will likely detect a kindship to Syrah (black fruits, violet hue, black pepper, juniper berry) in this luscious, mineral 2020. Medium-plus in body and gently tannic, it displays a dark, juicy, sappy core of fruit on the mid-palate, the buttons up on the spicy, mineral finish. It’s a nicely balanced wine with enough backbone to stand up to a well-seared steak or some herb-crusted lamb chops.
