Anyone who ignores a wine for having a bit of residual sugar obviously hasn’t been introduced to a classic, impeccably balanced Mosel Riesling, and those who haven’t been truly moved by one certainly haven’t tasted today’s five-year-old Kabinett from “Dream Team” Stephan Steinmetz and Christian Hermann.
This perfectly mature Riesling treasure is sourced from world-famous “Geierslay,” one of the timeless, should-be-Grand Cru vineyards of the Middle Mosel. It is both complex and highly addicting, offering up that mouth-watering feeling of biting into a juicy heirloom peach, plus an energizing and slate-infused streak of acid and savory minerality. For Riesling fanatics like myself—those who crave the flawless harmony of electric acidity and succulent fruit—this is among the best breakout/standout deals you can find. It’s also the last time you’ll find it: Barely 300 cases were initially produced, and we’re offering the final few that remain from the glorious 2018 vintage. Enjoy while you can!
The 2018 Wintricher Geierslay Riesling comes from the third vintage of a collaborative project between Steinmetz and Hermann, who connected over their mutual admiration when they met in 2014. Hermann, who learned under German legends like Dr. Loosen, JJ Prum, and Willi Schäefer, was impressed by Steinmetz’s prowess in the cellar with dry-leaning Riesling, while Steinmetz coveted the exceptional fruit from Hermann’s ancient-vine Ürziger Würzgarten vineyard. The partnership was ideal for the pair of like-minded vintners. It kicked off with just a single bottling of old-vine Würzgarten Riesling and has since expanded to include a Pinot Noir, as well as this Kabinett from Steinmetz’s Wintricher Geierslay site—a vineyard which kicks the tropical, citrus, and stone fruit flavors up several notches.
Located within the town of Wintrich, the dramatically gorgeous Geierslay vineyard holds a complex mosaic of blue and purple slate laced with ample quartzite, which lends pronounced elegance and beauty to its wines. Plus, a south-facing aspect encourages ripe, concentrated fruit that offers early-drinking appeal. For Steinmetz and Hermann’s 2018, grapes are picked at that just-right Kabinett-designate moment when sugar and acid have reached their ideal counterbalance. In the cellar, a stainless steel fermentation and expedient bottling allow the wine to maintain delightfully youthful freshness. Although Kabinetts have the shortest vine hangtime of the German Prädikatswein levels, trust us when we say this Riesling hangs with the best of them.
At five years old, this still opens up a touch reductive so either splash decant or give it several vigorous swirls before consuming. In an all-purpose stem around 45 degrees, a tidal wave of mouth-watering fruit rushes forth from this aromatic wine: crunchy green apple, candied lime peel, lemon curd, ripe melon, mango peel, and luscious peach—but before it has a chance to become cloying, a wave of crushed minerals roar in to freshen things up, with lemongrass and petrol wafting alongside. Although residual sugar is present on the palate, the searing acidity here cuts this wine like a knife carved from stone. All of the enticing flavors carry through to a strikingly long, fully satisfying finish that instantly causes your mouth to water. Serve it now at about 45-50 degrees in a white wine glass, or, if you’re so inclined, age it another five years. At this price, both options are easily doable. Cheers!
