Among Italian wine and travel aficionados, Umbria is often referred to as Italy’s “best-kept secret.” It is Tuscany’s immediate neighbor to the east, with a similar wine and food culture: Like Tuscany, Umbria’s premier red grape is Sangiovese, and, like Tuscany, Umbria makes some of Italy’s most piquant olive oils, but it is shortsighted to think of Umbria as “Tuscany Jr.” Umbria is the cuore verde (“green heart”) of Italy, with a culinary identity all its own, and, on the wine side, Umbria has Montefalco—and Sagrantino—as its ace in the hole.
Heilbron, who for many years ran Heineken’s Italian subsidiary, saw all the untapped potential of Umbria and jumped in with both feet. As he told Wine Spectator in 2018, “[he] quit because there were too many meetings, too many brands, too much delegation and travel.” Inspired by his friend, the late Gianfranco Soldera (of Brunello di Montalcino fame), Heilbron focused intently on organic farming and on non-interventionist practices in the cellar, enlisting the help of consulting winemaker Beppe Caviola and viticulturist Federico Curtaz. The estate now consists of 11 hectares of vines, rooted in the clay/marl soils typical of the region, along with another 30+ hectares of woodlands, olive groves, and orchards. While not officially certified, this property is as sustainable as it gets: no chemical inputs whatsoever are allowed in the vineyards, while the winery is powered by solar energy and a biomass boiler.
“Pomontino,” carrying the “Montefalco Rosso” DOC designation, combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Sagrantino. Heilbron/Caviola employ a “whole-berry” fermentation on native yeasts and age the wine for 12 months in large Slavonian oak casks, followed by at least six months in bottle before release. The wine melds the almost unparalleled muscle of Sagrantino with the finesse of Sangiovese to create something truly seductive. If you’re a fan of sleek and powerful Super-Tuscans, this is right up your alley—and you couldn’t ask for a better price for a wine of this dimension.
In the glass, the 2019 Pomontino is a medium ruby moving to magenta/pink at the rim (it’s not as inky as most Montefalco Rosso bottlings you’ll encounter), with a floral and seductive nose of blackberries, pomegranate, violets, lavender, licorice, underbrush, and warm spices. Just a click above medium-bodied, it is plush and velvety on the palate, with loads of length and a nice pinch of dusty minerality on the finish. It’s drinking beautifully now, especially after a 30-minute decant, so get some on your table as soon as possible: Serve at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems and dig into your favorite Italian cookbooks for something really “Umbrian.” The region is famous for its Castelluccio lentils, black truffles from Norcia, and is considered the birthplace of porchetta. You’ve got plenty to work with, and this wine delivers! Enjoy!