“Irpinia” is the name of the broader region surrounding Campania's Taurasi DOCG, in the same way that “Langhe” is the area encompassing Barolo, and this Irpinia Aglianico from Contrade di Taurasi is one of those “little brother” wines that gets it 100% right. Cantine Lonardo, founded by Sandro and Enza Lonardo in 1998, farms just four hectares of vineyards at very high elevations within Taurasi, with the late-ripening Aglianico not reaching full physiological maturity until early to mid-November in most instances.

This variety is all about dark fruit and smoky, earthy savor, at times reminiscent of Malbec and/or Syrah, and there’s all that full-throttle aroma and flavor here, without making you feel like you just took a two-by-four to the head: In the glass it’s a deep, nearly opaque ruby-black moving to magenta at the rim, redolent of crushed blackberry, Morello cherry, cranberry, violets, dried herbs, leather, ground espresso, and a characteristically Aglianico blast of pipe tobacco. It is medium-bodied for a wine from this part of the world, vivid and floral and well-balanced in its mix of saturated fruit and earthy savor. Decant it about 30 minutes before enjoying in Bordeaux stems at a nice, cool 60 degrees.