Mathiasson! Finally. I knew some time had passed since our last offering, but after checking the calendar I was shocked to learn we hadn’t tasted one of their prized cuvées in over two years. That’s not to say I haven’t tried: many phone calls were placed but it was always “not enough” or “sold out” on the other end. Clearly, the window of opportunity to acquire an elegant and gorgeously lifted Napa Cabernet from Matthiasson has greatly diminished. Still, we were fortunate enough to receive an allocation of their newest cuvée, so we inhaled it in one breath.

With this 2020 release, two-time “Winemaker of the Year” winner Steve Matthiasson proves yet again he’s a master of finesse-driven Cabs that channel the historic greats of the ’60s and ’70s. Impeccably sourced from organic vineyards throughout Napa Valley, and largely aged in older French oak for 20 months, “Village” has been expertly crafted to be savored on tonight’s dinner table (it will age beautifully, too). Bottom line: Matthiasson must be included in your fine-wine rotation—they’re among California’s most sought-after producers for a reason…

BONUS: Because we have no idea when we’ll see these wines again, I also snagged a five-case parcel of Matthiasson’s electric “Linda Vista Vineyard” Chardonnay. Up to three bottles can be acquired here. 

Having moved to Napa and toyed with a small parcel of vines in their backyard in 2002, how is it that Steve and his wife, Jill Klein Matthiasson, stand out among the hundreds of producers in Napa Valley today? Well, their wines pack an astonishing amount of flavor into every ounce, at modest alcohol levels, and Steve’s deep knowledge in viticulture allows him to harness the power of the soil and vine. As stated on their website, the Matthiasons—who met at UC Davis and emphasize that their production is a family affair—believe that winemaking “...is a natural extension of farming.” Because of this philosophy, they’ve built a deep list of clients whom they assist with organic and sustainable farming (e.g. Araujo Estate, Spottswoode, Chappellet, and Dalla Valle). 

So, yes, sustainability and organic farming are necessities in their own vineyards, and when they do source other fruit, they make sure it has been cared for in the same way. Take today’s Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a blend of organically farmed sites—both leased and owned—within the AVAs of Rutherford and Oak Knoll. After harvesting by hand, the grapes fermented at cool temperatures with low rates of extraction (it’s about perfume and elegance, not concentration and power) and saw twice-daily pump-overs. It’s also worth pointing out that Matthiasson understands the importance of extended, neutral aging for Cabernet which is why theirs age for 20 months in mostly used French barrels. I’d imagine this bottling only has around 10-15% new oak.

These wines are always the epitome of purity and elegance. In a Bordeaux stem around 60 degrees, this 2020 “Village” effuses a lush bushel of wild berry fruit followed by sublime aromas of graphite, cigar box, and herbs. The palate is just a touch under medium-plus in body, staying fresh, buoyant, and supple from start to finish. That’s the beauty of Matthiason: the wines are always balanced. After about 30 minutes of air, deep, fully ripened flavors of blueberry, mulberry, and black cherry gush out, gliding across a bed of tobacco leaf, pencil lead, and crushed volcanic rock. Enjoy your bottles now and over the next 5-8 years. Cheers!