Here it is, the rare flagship of Champagne Claude Cazals. Only produced in select vintages, this 2013 tête de cuvée was entirely sourced from the clos’ oldest Chardonnay vines (60+ years). It then aged over eight years on lees before disgorgement, a two-gram dosage, and a painfully small release in February of 2022. We only have a handful to share.

Whenever “Clos Cazals” hits the table, royalty and refinement come to mind and this 2013 is loaded with both. Poured into an all-purpose or Burgundy stem, it reveals a deep straw-yellow core and compact beads of carbonation that race to the surface. This is a deeply textured Vintage Champagne that highlights the magnificence of Grand Cru Chardonnay from Oger. Patience is certainly a virtue here, and for those who give “Clos Cazals” ample time to stretch its legs, you’ll find it provides subtle waves of lemon curd, saffron toasted brioche, yellow apple, Mirabelle plums, citrus blossoms, honeysuckle, and crushed white stones. The palate reveals a medium-plus-bodied Champagne of staggering lift, delicately honeyed character, and brilliant precision. This isn’t for voluptuaries, but for those who truly admire intricate, profoundly nuanced Champagne. If that’s you, buy one and stash it in a dark, cool place for another couple of years because, even at nine years old, this still hasn’t reached its full potential!