Could this be the market’s finest supersized bottling of organic Grüner Veltliner? We’ve been saying that since the very first release hit our shores two years ago, but a few things have changed since then: retailers across the nation now echo our sentiment; it’s received a gorgeous new label design; and this freshly bottled parcel is even more thirst-quenching!

Crafted by the generations- and centuries-deep Rosner family in the village of Langenlois, this humble Kamptal estate naturally farms their valuable trove of raw material in the midst of legends like Bründlymayer, Hirsch, Loimer, Edelbauer, and Weszeli. Although these producers exist at the uppermost tier of Austria’s booming wine landscape, when it comes to value per dollar, I’m looking right past them and focusing all of my energy on Stefan Rosner’s massive “Hauswein” bottling. How could you not? An organic liter of classically styled Grüner from one of the world’s elite wine-growing regions is incredible. And when it can be had for just over $20, it’s simply astounding. If somehow, despite all of our exhortations over the years, you’re unfamiliar with the crystalline brilliance of Grüner as grown in loess soils, let Rosner’s deeply refreshing 1L bottling be your guiding force and revelatory moment. Go big on this one! 

Given the lineup of superstar producers I listed above, it may be redundant to say that Kamptal is home to many of my all-time favorite Grüners which manifest the same emotional response as the great wines of Wachau and Kremstal. To us, today’s liter is one of those essential bottlings, fundamental to one’s understanding of the dazzling mineral presence and sheer deliciousness of Grüner Veltliner. And who better to show you than a family estate that has been in the same hands since 1897 (from the same cellar, too!). As for their current landscape of wine, it wouldn’t be possible without father-son team Norbert and Stefan Rosner, the latter of which recently came on board after completing degrees in both business and enology. It’s no stretch to say that Stefan is a rapidly rising star on the already-buzzing Austrian wine scene. 

Stefan notes that “our vineyards are free from chemical fertilizers and herbicides due to the great work of my father for more than a decade now (Certified Organic since 2010). It is important for me to also pursue a more natural approach during processing and fermenting of the wines.” And those philosophies are evident in today’s liter of Grüner Veltliner. Although labeled as a generic “landwein,” this is anything but as it is a masterful blend of their premier, organically farmed vineyard sites, presumably from the 2021 vintage. In the winery, it’s all about a quick, natural process: unmanipulated fermentation and a brief stainless steel maturation on lees. This parcel is the most recent bottling from Rosner, arriving stateside just last month.

There’s no need to do a deep dive on tasting notes here, nor is there a reason to explore every nuanced aroma: Stefan Rosner’s liter of Grüner is just damned delicious and thirst-quenching, all while retaining the hallmarks of this über-classic Austrian grape. It cascades out of the bottle with unrivaled freshness and a dazzling mixture of zesty citrus, light spice, damp white flowers, arugula, white pepper, and beautifully ripe green apple. This is unequivocally pure, deeply refreshing Grüner Veltliner at a price that belies common sense. Plus, with organic grapes, moderate alcohol, and an unadulterated process in the cellar, it’s also a liberating, guilt-free drinking experience! Pour into all-purpose stems around 45 degrees and make sure all of your age-appropriate family members are in attendance—when liters are on the table, there’s always enough to go around! Cheers!