John Alban says that it was a bottle of Condrieu, enjoyed while he was studying enology at UC Davis, that set him on his career path. Known as one of California’s most influential “Rhône Rangers,” Alban apprenticed throughout the Rhône Valley and elsewhere in France, concluding that the climate and soil of the Edna Valley, on California’s Central Coast, would be hospitable to classic Rhône Valley grapes such as Grenache, Syrah, Viognier, and Roussanne.

Since Alban first starting propagating Rhône varieties more than 30 years ago, Alban Vineyards has been largely responsible (via grapevine cuttings) for California’s planted acreage of Viognier growing from zero to more than 2,000 acres today. Following Alban’s lead, many other noteworthy California vintners have embraced the floral, fleshy pleasures of Viognier, but if you’re looking for the “O.G.,” this is it, right here.

Alban’s Central Coast bottling is comprised of about 75% estate-grown fruit supplemented by purchased grapes. It is fermented and aged in stainless steel and bottled early to retain freshness. In the glass, it’s a brilliant yellow-gold, bursting forth with peach, apricot, and honeysuckle aromas that carry over to a textured, fruit-driven palate. Hints of white flowers and wet stones lend grace notes to the citrusy, refreshing finish. A sumptuous, Condrieu-inspired white to enjoy at 45-50 degrees in all-purpose stems. Pair it with rich, lemony seafood preparations incorporating lobster or crab.