Before we delve into today’s spectacular Napa Cab, I’d like to bottom-line it for everyone: The Wonderland Project has produced one of the most objectively delicious, authentic, and underpriced Napa Cabernets of the year. Equipped with top vineyard sources and the philosophies of old-school California (clean farming; low intervention; affordability), this boutique label has spent the past decade planning a calculated series of advances, and today’s “No. 9” serves as an emphatic “checkmate” against the premium competition.

By tapping three organically farmed vineyards high up on Napa Valley’s Atlas Peak, bottling small amounts of barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon, and making the astonishing decision to release it for a mere $39, this instantly becomes a value-of-the-year candidate. But be warned: When Napa Cab tastes this profound for this little, secrets don’t last—especially when that “secret” is being poured at The French Laundry. The reason there hasn’t been a groundswell of purchasing amongst consumers? Today’s 2019 is the sophomore release of “No. 9” and it’s only a matter of time until it enjoys a meteoric rise. Ground Control to Major Tom…

Established in 2010 by sommelier and wine trade veteran Matt Ahern, The Wonderland Project initially focused on small-lot Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from sustainably-minded, salt-of-the-earth farmers throughout Sonoma County. Ten years on and the bones of the project have remained constant—that is, seeking out organic raw material, using minimal intervention in the cellar, and bottling small amounts at superb prices. A few years back, Matt began looking into Cabernets from Sonoma’s famous neighbor, Napa Valley, and in 2019 he found the perfect site to expand his humble project.

“No. 9” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is not some mixed bag of appellations, terroirs, and exposures but rather a meticulous selection from three mountain sites within Napa Valley’s Atlas Peak AVA. The vines in this prized sub-appellation are perched on craggy slopes overlooking the valley and are buried in a mixture of volcanic and gravelly loam soils. Upon harvest in the first days of October, the grapes were de-stemmed before spontaneous fermentation, and after 25 days of being in contact with its skins, the resulting wine was pressed and transferred into 30% new French barrels. The wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered after 17 months of aging. 

Today’s 2019 may be young but there’s no lack of depth, polish, and intensity to each sip. In fact, I recommend and strongly urge you to drink a few of them now after a 30-minute decant. It’s not often I say that about a young Cab, but then again, they don’t often explode out of a Bordeaux stem with lush and classy aromas of ripe black cherry, boysenberry, baked plum, and blackcurrant that are framed by savory tobacco leaf, cigar box, pencil lead, candied violet, espresso, mountain herb, and crushed black rock. Then there’s the palate: Just a hair under full-bodied, it is breathtakingly supple yet firm with layers upon seamless layers of dark fruit and soft minerality. It finishes long with impressive shine and freshness that point towards at least 10 years of positive evolution. Enjoy this stupendous value!