Some wines just offer so much from so many angles, I don’t know how to start writing about them. Should I tell you the Domaine Seguin-Manuel’s “Petit Noizons” is one of the most terroir-transparent, classically styled Burgundies we’ve come across lately, and that it hails from a site that Allen Meadows calls “arguably the best village-level vineyard in Pommard?” Or what about leading with the fact that this super-rare (as in, fewer than 30 cases on the West Coast) Pommard is just starting to flaunt its Mensa-level brilliance after four years of maturation?

Or that its unadorned greatness reminded us of the previous era of legends—the Ligniers, Lafarges, and Ponsots of the world—who simply knew they worked some of Burgundy’s best raw material and did everything in their power to show it. Feel free to take your pick. But, no matter what angle you come at today’s wine from, one thing is clear: this is a bottle every Burgundy lover needs in their cellar—the sort of Pinot Noir whose timeless profundity will keep on consistently rising as trends come and go over the next 10+ years. How’s that for a hook?

A site like this could ask for no better interpreter than Domaine Seguin-Manuel. It’s one of the oldest continuously producing domaines in Burgundy, with their wines garnering acclaim all the way back to the 1800s. The current proprietor, Thibaut Marion, is a master of his craft who specializes in impossibly detailed, elegant, and ethereal red Burgundies. Macerations are generally on the shorter side and new oak is employed very judiciously. Burgundy, prone to trends as any region, has seen a shift in recent years towards a style that employs a lot of whole clusters and a lot of new oak, emphasizing early drinking at the expense of terroir transparency. We like a great many of those wines, but they are not what Thibaut is after. His style is classical, mineral, polished, and endlessly complex. His 2017 Pommard Petit Noizons” is a perfect encapsulation of his style.

Serve the 2017 Domaine Seguin-Manuel Pommard Petit Noizons” as you would all great Burgundy: slightly chilled at 60 degrees, in large Burgundy stems. One whiff and you know that this is Pommard from a master: wild strawberries, dark red cherries, Damson plum, dried roses, iron, a hint of chocolate and cinnamon, and a profound truffle/mushroom/potting soil earthiness. The palate is silken, dark-fruited, and round with limestone-based energy brimming throughout and a very fine but present coating of tannins. There is freshness and verve here, with a seemingly endless depth; it has the concentration and structure to last through the next 10-15 years, or more. This will work beautifully with any sort of spiced lamb dish or even salmon, but it calls for something equally classic and timeless. Maybe Julia Childs’ Coq Au Vin?  This is the kind of wine I want at least a case of, so I can check in on it regularly before laying a few bottles down for the long haul. And act fast, too, because quantities are very limited. You don’t want to be left behind on this one!