The rumors of Carignane’s demise have been grossly exaggerated. In fact, the variety is having a renaissance, not only in its original haunts in Spain (Priorat) and France (Saint-Chinian, Faugères, etc), but in California as well, where it has a much longer history than you might think. 

Carignane is one of the foundational grapes in California winemaking: In the 1960s and ’70s it was the most-planted red grape in the state (by a wide margin), and while its acreage has since declined dramatically, what remains is increasingly sought-after raw material. Why? Because most of it is from incredibly old vines but remains undervalued compared to the likes of Pinot Noir and Cabernet. In the case of Jordan Kivelstadt’s “Old Wyve’s Tale,” one of its source vineyards was planted in 1877—the oldest Carignane in California—while the other contains plantings exceeding 70 years of age. Vine age helps curb excess productivity (a Carignane hallmark), resulting in wines of soul, nuance, and energy—three descriptors I’d enthusiastically apply to today’s 2018. If you’re inclined to think of Carignane-based wines as big, blocky behemoths, think again: “Old Wyve’s Tale'' is more agile than its name would suggest. The vines are old, but the wine is youthful and lively—a great example of how depth and character can exist without excess weight. And then there’s the price—a small one to pay for a wine of such heritage pedigree.

Since launching his brand in 2007 with 125 cases of Syrah from a family-owned vineyard, Jordan Kivelstadt has shown a keen eye for real estate, building an enviable roster of grower-partners. Working alongside winemaker Sam Baron, who joined the team in 2017, Kivelstadt enlists an especially impressive duo for the Old Wyve’s tale bottling: The Venturi Vineyard, located just south of Ukiah in Mendocino’s Calpella Valley, is one source (58%), boasting vines first planted in the 1940s. It is farmed today by third-generation proprietor Larry Venturi, whose 70-year-old Carignane plantings share space with old school California specialties such as Zinfandel, Charbono, and Syrah. Farming is Certified Organic, and the soils are described as “Pinole” gravelly loam, an easy-draining mixture of sandstone, shale, and quartz.

Then there’s the really old stuff: Carignane from head-trained, dry-farmed vines at Cooley Ranch, at the northern tip of the Alexander Valley. First planted in 1877, the vineyard is rooted in gravelly loam soils and is Certified Organic and yields tiny amounts (only about 1.5 tons per acre, very low for Carignane) of deeply concentrated berries.

Describing 2018 as a cool and steady vintage, Baron fermented this wine using about 40% whole grape clusters, which undoubtedly contributed to the lift and woodsy spice of the wine. It was effectively made in a “semi-carbonic” style, as in Beaujolais, with aging carried out in used oak barrels to keep fruit and earth at the fore. In the glass, it displays a deep ruby/black hue moving to a magenta rim, with lots of brambly fruit notes at first pass: raspberry, mulberry, blackberry. There’s a strong savory component as well, with notes of crushed rocks, dried herbs, sarsaparilla, and ground coffee. It is fresh and ready to drink, needing only a splash-decant to get the party started, so break out some Bordeaux stems and pour at a cool 60 degrees to maximize refreshment. There’s a perfectly calibrated touch of rusticity to this wine that makes me think of grilling and BBQ. Some brisket would be a nice choice to pick up the subtle hint of smoke behind all the lush berry fruit. Enjoy!