I love pitching the hard sell like Croatian Pošip or Bairrada Baga as much as the next sommelier, but that's not today's wine. Domaine Chanson’s 2016 Beaune “Grèves” is like selling a pickaxe to the first wave of gold rushers. It’s the kind of pedigreed, soul-stirring, this-is-why-people-freak-for-Burgundy bottle about which I have to add very little. 

This deep, dark-fruited lesson in 1er Cru Burgundy class and breed does all the talking for me: It’s (1) sourced from one of the most esteemed Premier Cru sites in the Côte de Beaune, (2) crafted by one of the region’s most historic houses; (3) from a tiny yet superb vintage; and (4) vinified 100% whole cluster à la Domaines Dujac, DRC, and Leroy. As if that wasn’t already enough, we’re the only ones with access to this last-of-vintage parcel, and we’re letting it go for an illogically low price. I don’t blame you if you skip the following paragraphs and go straight to the “Add to Cart” button. In fact, I recommend it: We have but only a handful of cases of this gorgeously muscular and cellar-worthy Pinot Noir to distribute.

Few in Burgundy can match Domaine Chanson for pedigree. One of only a handful of producers still in operation since the 18th century, they’ve been leading the négociant pack since an ownership change in 1999 with incredible attention to detail. In Burgundy, the land of micro-parcels and minuscule domaines, négociants can get a bad rap, but the truth is they bring two qualities to the table often lacking in the region: consistency and value. And as far as quality is concerned, Chanson’s use of 100% whole cluster in their reds and insistence upon moderating new French oak during an 18-month élevage elevates them into the conversation of Burgundy’s top tier. 

Let’s also not overlook the fact that an enterprise like Chanson has access to vineyard sites most Burgundy growers can only dream of, and they also own a great patchwork of holdings themselves, like several organically farmed acres in today’s “Grèves,” a Beaune Premier Cru landmark. The thin, pebbly soils on this southeast-facing slope are said to have inspired its name (grèves being derived from gravière, meaning ‘gravel pit’). There are Grand Cru vineyards a few miles north on the hill of Corton, but “Grèves” is an over-achieving Premier Cru that regularly delivers some of the best reds in the Côte de Beaune. 

Texture and drinkability are the Grèves hallmarks. Those qualities are on full display in Chanson’s 2016, and there’s even more structure and definition than the site is commonly known for. The result is a bottle that offers the immediate drinkability Côte de Beaune reds are known for, but with an added second gear that’s going to drive this bottle through the long haul. It’s hard to leave it alone at this point, but I suspect this will really start firing in 2-3 years. 

If you’re drinking now, I recommend an hour-long decant to let the gorgeous, deep-hued fruit really blossom. Served at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems, the pale ruby shade belies the incredible depth and density on the nose, redolent of black cherries and their pits, perfectly ripe blackberries, and an underpinning of licorice and rose petal. The savory aspect of the nose is thrilling, with incredible sappy, cedar-like spice, forest floor, and just a hint of oak-derived nutmeg. The palate is medium in body with a vibrant drive of lifted acidity and fine tannins providing a firm frame to the dark, brambly fruit. The spice and savor come to the fore on the mid-palate alongside button mushrooms and a flinty minerality before merging with sweet dark cherry fruit. Five years on from the vintage, this is just starting to unfurl now and will be absolutely stunning in a few years. It also has the structure to last at least a decade in your cellar. Something this utterly classic calls for an equally classic dish: perhaps some boeuf bourguignon? At $65, I can’t think of any reason not to grab six bottles of this, and I strongly recommend you do because once we sell through our allotment, it’s gone forever!