The greatest wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape show off a side of the Grenache grape that is rarely seen but highly prized: the aromatic, nuanced side. These wines are considerably richer than reds from Pinot Noir but they share a similar come-hither scent, one that guarantees something more than just saturated red fruit. In the hands of a benchmark producer like Clos du Mont-Olivet, and especially when the Grenache hails from Châteauneuf’s sandier parcels, power and energy come together in a way that re-connects you with one of the wine world’s most enduring classics.
“La Cuvée du Papet” is the top-of-the-line bottling at Clos du Mont-Olivet, where some vineyard parcels exceed 100 years of age and the house style has always prioritized aromatics and balance over monolithic power; it is one of the greatest examples of traditionally styled Châteauneuf-du-Pape on the market and yet it remains reasonably priced, especially when you consider its proven track record for aging. Is there a stronger word to use than benchmark? Archetype, maybe? Quintessence? Heck, they all work. You’ll see.
I’d add “essential” to the above list of superlatives. Back when I was studying for the Master Sommelier exam, Mont-Olivet was the kind of producer we’d use for blind-tasting practice. Having since had the pleasure of visiting this historic, family-run estate, I say this unequivocally: If you’d like a one-stop master class on aromatic, meaty, old-school Châteauneuf-du-Pape, you go to Clos du Mont-Olivet. Run by generations of the Sabon family since 1932, and headquartered in a stone house that overlooks the ancient papal castle that gave the town its name, Mont-Olivet is the equivalent of a Châteauneuf winemaking museum. Their 15 vineyard parcels in Châteauneuf-du-Pape are mostly concentrated in the northern and eastern sectors of the appellation, encompassing the full array of soil types in the region, but those parcels reserved for La Cuvée du Papet are predominantly sandy, and include some of the oldest plantings in the appellation (one parcel was planted in 1901).
Thierry Sabon is the latest generation to head up this estate, but he has preserved the methodologies than have served the family well over the years: Grapes are only partially de-stemmed before fermentation in cement tanks on native yeasts; this ‘partial whole cluster’ fermentation helps to tamp down some of the richness and sweetness typical of southern Rhône reds, lending them a spicy backbone. Aging takes place only in old, large-capacity foudre barrels, and the wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered. While Grenache is the driving force in their cuvées (comprising 80% of today’s wine), the Sabons farm all the 13 different grapes the appellation allows in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape blend. Along with the Grenache, today’s ’19 contains 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Syrah, all of it sourced from four key lieu-dits (named vineyard sites), including well-known crus such as “La Crau” and “Pied de Baud.”
The moderating effect provided by older vines is in full effect here, and is complemented by the use of 40% whole grape clusters for Cuvée du Papet: The Mont-Olivet wines always have lots of concentration but not so much that they feel overblown, sweet, or “hot”—there’s always plenty of freshness providing all-important backbone and ballast. In the glass, it’s a deep, nearly opaque purple-ruby moving to magenta at the rim, with powerful aromas of black and red fruits, violets, licorice, leather, wild herbs, and baking spices. It is full-bodied but focused, the fruit nicely framed by acidity and fine, firm tannins—beefy and muscular rather than soft and sweet. Decant it about 30 minutes before enjoying in Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees, preferably with something typical of the region. Another way to go is Texas-style BBQ—a surprisingly spot-on pairing! As I write this, summer has just turned to fall and the occasions for a bold, memorable red like this are increasing in number. Stock up!
