Two years ago, we inducted ourselves into Feyles’ secret cult after tasting their phenomenal and rarely seen 2008 Barolo Riserva, and today we’re thrilled to be offering it again after a small re-release trickled out of their Piedmontese cellar. For those who missed out, this is a bonafide example of pure, traditionally styled Barolo loaded with all the savory goodness that makes Piedmont the veritable king of Nebbiolo—and it’s just $55.

This has led us to ask one question: Why do they have such a limited and sporadic presence in the US? Maybe it’s because this is an artisanal, anti-marketing estate or maybe it’s the fact that their exceptionally long-aged Barolo Riserva comes from a single hectare and is quietly released in small waves. Whatever the reason, few have seen these wines but those who have, like us, instantly become rabid followers. Classic Barolo with substantial age—for such a shockingly low price—makes for one of wine’s finest experiences, and this ’08 is just getting started. We think it'll be celebrating its 25th birthday in grand style. Up to six bottles per person. 

NOTE: Along with today’s 2008 Barolo Riserva, we were gifted a (literal) few cases of Feyles’ current-release 2013 Barbaresco Riserva, available here for $45/btl.

Founded in 1964 by Maria Feyles and her son-in-law, Antonio de Nicola, the small estate has been run almost single-handedly by Antonio ever since. Now in his eighties, he’s the subject of an excellent profile by Jeff Miller of Grape Expectations, who was “at a loss for words” upon tasting Feyles’ ultra-traditional Barolo—which, as a rule, is aged at least five years before thinking about a small-scale release which is staggered out over the course of many, many years. Whereas a lot of old-school Barolo like this contains its fair share of flaws, this one is tremendously clean, pure, and pleasantly earthy. In fact, When we first tasted this ’08 “Vigna della Serra,” the fine-tuned, red-fruited Barolos of Giuseppe Mascarello came to mind.

Overall, the Feyles estate farms just seven hectares of vineyards, most of them planted to Nebbiolo for Barolo. Their “Serra” vineyard is a subsection of the famed “Perno” cru in Monforte, with a southwestern orientation and a hilltop perch of about 380 meters. Today’s Riserva underwent a month-long maceration on its skins during an indigenous yeast fermentation, then spent two years in large Slavonian oak casks before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It spent another three years evolving in Feyles’ cellar before release. 

At 13 years old, there’s still a firm tannic backbone to the wine that softens a bit with time open. It’s a very high-toned, perfumed style that’ll make Barolo geeks swoon. In the glass, the 2008 has a deep garnet core with flecks of cherry red and orange at the rim. An assortment of age-related “secondary” aromas of leather, sandalwood, and tobacco have crept in and flank the fruit notes of dried black cherry, wild strawberries, roasted plum, redcurrant, and orange peel. The medium-plus-bodied palate is firm and fine, with mouthwatering “cut” and tremendous aromatic persistence on the finish—in short, everything we expect top-quality aged Barolo to be, except way less expensive than normal. If you collect Barolo wines, you must make room for some of this: It’ll knock your socks off now after about 30 minutes in a decanter, but, if stored well, it’ll thrive for many more years to come. Over time it promises to become more exotic, more savory, and more complex. If you can afford it, grab a bunch of bottles so you can re-visit it periodically. Keep the service temperature around 60-65 degrees, pull out your best Burgundy stems, and pair it with a proven classic like risotto al Barolo, maybe with a dollop of gorgonzola thrown on at the last minute. This is pure, Piedmontese perfection. Enjoy!