If you’ve been following us for a while, you know that when it comes to premium Wachau Grüner, or elite white wine in general, Weingut Knoll’s top Smaragd bottlings have long enjoyed a seat on the GOAT throne. But, today’s 2019 “Ried Steinertal” from Alzinger, which offers up every bit as much pedigree and renown (and quietly holds a review that’s flirting with perfection), demands inclusion to that gilded seat.
If you’re unaware, Alzinger is a reference-point estate in Austria’s Wachau region the way Lafite-Rothschild is in Bordeaux, Mondavi is in Napa Valley, and Penfolds is in Australia; the kind of wine even casual observers of the wine scene have permanently affixed to their radars. But today’s knockout Grüner holds far more than the name of one of Wachau’s greatest benchmarks estates: The vineyard is crème de la crème too—on par with legendary Loibenberg—plus, that “Smaragd” designation seen on the front label means this is as rich and luxurious as Austrian wines come. With the tiny allocation we scored (only a handful of cases), I don’t expect this to survive for long. Enjoy.
Leo Alzinger, Jr., who took over his family’s estate in 2002, is at the top of his game these days. Compared with his Wachau neighbors, Leo prizes elegance over opulence, purity over manipulation, and subtlety over power. Few producers can rival his ability to balance mouth-watering refreshment and striking complexity. Today’s wine comes from the Steinertal vineyard, a remarkable parcel with a complex soil mosaic of gneiss, mica schist, primary rock, and loam soils, prized equally for its Riesling and Grüner. The latter thrives primarily in the lower, deeper terraces of the site which are primarily silt- and loess-based. A slight southwest exposure allows for additional evening sun, tempered by cool air currents that blow in from the north.
Because of the mature age of the vines and the exposition of the parcels, harvest typically happens later at Alzinger than at neighboring properties, but this extra hangtime doesn’t result in elevated sugar levels. Instead, it brings even greater balance to the physiological ripeness of the fruit. Alzinger’s 2019 “Ried Steinertal” Grüner Veltliner Smaragd is crushed whole cluster with a short maceration. The must is then allowed to settle for 24 hours, dropping out any bitter tannins, before a spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel. Élévage occurs primarily in steel, along with a small proportion of large, neutral Austrian acacia barrels.
Rich, layered, and creamy, today’s wine is dominated by ripe citrus and orchard fruits, with a hint of fragrant tropical fruit peels and white flowers. Leesy, creamy undertones contribute understated richness, counterbalanced by more bracing notes of wet stone, grapefruit zest, lemon pith, white pepper, and baby arugula. Lush, savory, saline, and mineral accents lend a cool, refreshing energy to the wine, which is at once delicate and concentrated on the palate. It’s just going to keep getting better for a decade or longer, so if you can hold off, you’ll definitely be rewarded. But if you simply can’t wait, you’re certainly not going to be disappointed. This is the antithesis of your everyday lean and zingy Grüner, so think main course when pairing—it will work just as well as a $100 white Burgundy would. Try a simple but flavorful preparation of your favorite white fish, poached in a garlicky, herby broth with a kick of spice.
