In a region as established, pedigreed, and interconnected as Burgundy, it’s easy to forget that most estates have been heavily fragmented across generations, so discovering a new “it” producer can be a monumental undertaking. We’ve been navigating this treasure map for quite some time now, and have dug up some killer finds along the way, but Domaine Pernot Belicard may very well be the ultimate “X marks the spot.”
The grandson of legend Paul Pernot (one of the leaders of world-famous Puligny-Montrachet), Philippe Pernot set out on his own in 2009, having inherited a few old-vine parcels from his marriage. He’s farming sustainably, employing a brilliant barrel-then-steel aging regimen, and crafting small quantities that already have quickly earned him reverence amongst colleagues and critics. While this 2019 is a delicious, classic, high-toned Puligny, plus an empathic reminder that great white Burgundy has no peer—it’s also a must-have experience for those keen on lucid wine edification and self-indulgence. A perfectly sculpted Puligny-Montrachet will always make my shortlist of all-time favorites because it contains wine’s most profound levels of tension, energy, perfume, and mineral richness. That’s why Pernod Belicard is already on my “must watch” list, and if today’s 2019 is any indication, the future will be blindingly bright—and more expensive, too!
If you’ve ever had a Puligny-Montrachet from Paul Pernot, or better yet, one of their Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachets, then you’re fully aware of the extraordinary talent emanating from this family-run domaine. And now, that talent has extended its reach: After a short stint helping run this famous estate in the 2000s, he set out on his own in 2009 after marrying into the Belicard family. At the time, the Belicards were farming just under six hectares and the majority of their crop was sold off to various négociants. Philippe, however, was a winemaker at heart, so he canceled the ongoing contracts, kept the fruit in-house, and released his first vintage. Best of all, Philippe has yet to receive his vine inheritance from Paul Pernot, so when that day comes, this domaine will be blessed with raw material of even greater pedigree!
Today’s Puligny-Montrachet comes from the Belicard’s old-vine holdings throughout the village. Philippe farms sustainably and always harvest by hand, generally a touch earlier than his neighbors to preserve freshness and acidity. In their cramped cellar—where any available space is precious—the grapes ferment and mature on lees in new and used French barrels for one year. In the beginning, Philippe wanted to age them longer but was forced to bottle them in order to make room for the next vintage. He found a workaround in 2013: After one year in oak, the wines are now transferred into stainless steel for an additional six months. This move enhanced the texture and refinement of his wines, and has quickly put him on everyone’s radar.
That texture and refinement is on full display with today’s 2019 Puligny-Montrachet. This white Burgundy has so much equipoise and tension, and super-high-toned aromatics practically soar out of the glass: candied lime blossoms, salt-preserved lemon, diced yellow and green apples, white peach skin, lees, fresh white flowers, honeysuckle, vanilla bean, toasted almonds, crushed stone, and hints of baking spices. The palate is razor-sharp, steely, fresh, and intensely mineral with a wonderfully ripe backbone of yellow orchard and citrus fruits. There is a richness to each layer but this is more electric and vertical rather than lush and horizontal. It’s classic Puligny—something I treasure. I recommend treating this gem to a 60-minute decant before service in Burgundy stems around 50-55 degrees. This will hit a new gear after another 1-2 years in bottle and sometime around birthday six or seven, all cylinders will be firing. We hope you enjoy this incredible new find!
