When it comes to the intricately segmented and nuanced terroir of Burgundy, one of the most underrated yet historically appreciated appellations remains Pouilly-Fuissé. In the right hands, these lush, pulse-quickening Chardonnays can compete with, and outclass, many of their Côte de Beaune counterparts.

In my opinion, one of those pairs of hands belongs to Daniel Barraud, and renowned Burgundy aficionado Allen Meadows concurs: “Daniel Barraud is without question one of the finest growers in all of the Mâconnais,” he says, “and there is a credible argument to be made that his remarkable consistency vaults him right to the very top of the list.” Compared with higher-priced wines from the Côte de Beaune, the best Pouilly-Fuissé bottlings from small, thoughtful producers like Barraud can offer way more satisfaction for your dollar. Today’s wine is a prime example, and a far cry from the overtly ripe, dripping-in-oak whites that earned Pouilly-Fuissé its reputation decades ago. Rich, layered, and full of tense minerality, it’s a perfectly balanced Chardonnay that rivals Premier Cru Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and/or Meursault priced twice as high. You’re going to love it.

In the scenic hamlet of Vergisson, Barraud upholds his family’s traditions, hand-crafting wines from meticulously tended, organic vineyards. The seeds for the domaine were planted in 1902 by Daniel’s great-grandfather, Jean-Marie Barraud, a sharecropper who saved enough money over 10 years to purchase a small plot of land. Soon after, his son, Joseph, took over and made significant improvements that set up the domaine for its eventual success. This included (1) purchasing premium vineyard sites, (2) selling to restaurants, and (3) domaine bottling in the 1930s. By the time the next generation inherited the business, it was thriving, and when their son, Daniel, and his wife, Martine, took over, their goal was simply to maintain the Barraud reputation for quality, innovation, and dedication to terroir. They have been aided by their son, Julien, since 2006, and he has taken a passionate and fruitful approach to that mission. 

Today’s wine comes from four parcels around the famous village of Vergisson, where vines aged between 40 and 60 years grow at the comparatively high altitude of 300-350 meters. The name “Alliance” is a reference to the union of terroirs that go into this wine, combining soils based on limestone scree, fossilized limestone, and clay, in a representative cross-section of Vergisson. Organic farming is essential to vine health at Domaine Barraud—Guyot-Poussard pruning allows sap to flow freely and evenly, vineyard treatments are limited to sulfur and copper sulfate, and all labor is done by hand. 

Grapes are brought carefully and quickly to the winery, to avoid premature oxidation, and the whole clusters are gently pressed. The juice settles overnight, in temperature-controlled tanks, before being racked by gravity into French oak barrels, 20% new, and fermented with native yeasts. Following 12 months in barrel, “Alliance” spends two months resting in stainless steel tanks before it is bottled unfined and unfiltered. 

Barraud’s impeccably balanced 2019 Alliance is deep, rich, and textural, but at the same time, bright, vibrant, and lifted—the result of an early harvest following a challenging vintage that cut yields in half. In the glass, it shows a straw-yellow hue flecked with light green accents. The inviting nose beckons with fleshy yellow apple, white peach, and green anjou pear, giving way to a plush, supple palate with a racy, mineral core. Although brightened by tangy citrus, bright orchard fruit, and a spray of sea salt acidity, “Alliance” also shows a beautiful touch of toasty oak character that works very well with the wine’s weight and structure. After a 30-minute decant, serve this chilled (but not too cold!) in white Burgundy stems around 50 degrees. Match it with strong, soft cheeses or a minimalist classic, like roast chicken with lemon.