If I were to compile a “greatest hits” list of top Northern Rhône values, Gilles Robin’s “Papillon” would always find its way to the summit. In addition to the wine’s incomparable value, Robin’s knack for letting the soils of Crozes-Hermitage speak through the glass in a delightfully transparent way is nonpareil. I’ll admit that there are only a handful of Rhône producers that I depend on for this consistent level of high quality and, like Alain Graillot and Emmanuel Darnaud, Robin has become one of them.

“Cuvée Papillon” is young, robust Syrah in one of its purest forms, thanks to a trifecta of organic farming, oak-free vinification, and meticulous attention to detail from an elite-level vigneron. It's no surprise that it’s become a staff favorite at SommSelect, as well as a regular staple in my own home. Plus, it never hurts that the wine has been a steady member of the $30-and-under club since I first tasted it nearly 10 years ago. How can anyone say no to that?!

Robin’s estate is located in the town of Mercurol, approximately three miles or so outside of the village of Tain. Contrary to the granite-heavy soils of neighboring villages, Robin’s vineyards are dominated by a mosaic of sand, pebbles, and iron-rich clay, which give his wines a softer, more approachable-in-their-youth structure than many of the more concentrated Syrahs from the area. In other words, Robin doesn’t seek to emulate the “Hermitage wannabes” of the region. 

Robin’s vineyards are Certified Organic, some of which date back 80+ years. However, “Cuvée Papillon” didn’t find its way into the lineup until 2001, the same year that Gilles’ first daughter was born. Fruit for this energetic wine is 100% de-stemmed and ages for eight months in stainless steel tanks. Although the practice of eschewing oak in the Northern Rhône is rather uncommon, Gilles finds that doing so allows a more subtle, spice-driven side of the wine to spread its wings. Although 2019 was a rather warm vintage in the Northern Rhône, reliable producers like Gilles were able to achieve a level of balance amongst their entire lineup.

Today’s glass shows an opaque purple core, fanning out to a magenta-hued rim. On the nose, the wine is intense and concentrated, marked by powerful aromatics of boysenberry, cold blue fruits, and blackberries, with nuances of wildflowers, fresh herbs, crushed stones, and a touch of smoked meat lingering in the background. The wine is juicy and fresh on the palate, emphasized by textured flavors of cold olive, damp forest floor, and hints of black pepper. Although the character of fruit is ripe and rich, the wine remains extremely refreshing—think dense and delicious, simultaneously. We always find that the wine is best served just above cellar temperature, around 60-65 degrees, particularly out of a large Burgundy stem (though Bordeaux glasses will equally do the trick). “Papillon” is built for near-term drinking and will provide the best experience if consumed over the next 3-4 years, preferably with a 30-minute decant prior to drinking. 

This is consistently one of the most brilliant expressions of Northern Rhône Syrah at the price point. In the realm of food and wine pairing, my mind immediately goes to herb-crusted lamb with a nice roast on it, as well as other char-grilled red meats. Hearty French classics like duck confit cassoulet will also let the wine shine, though there’s no need to get too fancy here—a juicy, fire-grilled burger will also do the trick. Cheers!