When Reilly Keenan journeyed down from his isolated Spring Mountain homestead three weeks ago, solely to share a meticulously selected lineup of back-vintage Cabernet and Merlot, an “extra” was instantly prefixed to our ordinary weeknight.
For those who haven’t had the fortune of trying a perfectly sculpted and cellared bottle of mature Napa Valley mountain red, it’s hard to explain just how indelible they can be. For me, they are the epitome of classically structured, long-lived California wines, and among the most moving experiences imaginable. And, while every 15+-year-old bottle of Keenan red we tasted that night was nothing short of sensational, this 2003 Merlot just hit differently. It had all the hauntingly savory and brooding aromatics of Pomerol’s finest and a harmoniously pure, superbly lifted palate that pointed to another 18 years of effortless evolution. It just doesn’t get better than this for $90, but that of course comes with a proviso: The literal handful of cases in our possession represents the last of their stock. Up to six bottles per person until inventory hits zero.
For those who missed Keenan’s backstory in this morning’s limited offer (go grab a few bottles, if any are left!), keep on reading and prepare to have your mind blown if you geek out over classic Napa Valley “mountain reds” bursting with old-school energy like Philip Togni, Smith-Madrone, Stony Hill, and Spring Mountain Vineyards. Having trekked up to their mountainside address on numerous occasions for vineyard walks and decades-old library tastings, we’ve been itching to put Keenan’s wines on our platform for years. That day has finally arrived, and we did our best to make up for the long absence by offering their current-release “Mernet Reserve” an extremely limited proprietary blend of Cabernet-Merlot, followed by what we believe to be one of the greatest mature reds in their extensive library collection—the 2003 Merlot in front of you right now.
Family-operated for three generations and nestled deep in the forested hillside of Spring Mountain, Keenan runs a deeply venerated, if not under-the-radar, wine enterprise devoted to sustainable farming and renewable energy. The property was founded by Robert Keenan in 1974 when he purchased a sprawling 180-acre tract of land perched at 1700 feet in altitude. And it was quite the undertaking: At the time, it was home to neglected, non-producing vines and the abandoned Peter Conradi Winery, among the first established on the mountain in the late 1800s. So, after complete replanting and rebuilding (using material from the original structure), Robert debuted his first vintage in 1977. After two decades, his son Michael entered the fold and introduced his “green” eco-friendly vision that he and his own son, Reilly, continue upholding today. In short, this is one of Napa’s premier mountain properties, and should you find yourself in Napa, please drop us or them a line—they’d love to host you!
Today’s 2003 Merlot came from Keenan’s estate vines plus a small portion of contracted fruit in Napa Valley’s southernmost AVA of Carneros. Additionally, 5% estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon was blended in to lend more structure and savory elements to the final wine. After maturing in a combination of French and American oak, roughly one-third new, for 18 months, the wine was bottled and sent to slumber for nearly 16 years.
In the glass, Keenan’s 2003 Merlot exhibits a deep hazy ruby core moving out to brick orange hues on the rim. Because this parcel was perfectly stored at the original source, I think many people would struggle labeling this as 18 years old. After gently pulling the cork, allow the wine to rest for about 15 minutes before pouring into Bordeaux stems and dipping your nose in. You’ll uncover soft, seductive aromas of dried black cherry, currant, huckleberry, cacao, vintage leather, baked plum, cigar box, bay leaf, loose tobacco, baking spice, and crushed rock. The palate is powerful and sublime with intricate layers of dried berry fruit and finely crushed savory components that linger on a 20+ second finish. We drank this wine over a 24-hour period and the final few ounces still effused incredible levels of poise and tension—meaning this nearly two-decade-old Merlot still has so much left in the tank. This is a certifiable steal for lovers of classic Napa Valley mountain reds and both banks of Bordeaux. Very few remain, don’t miss out!