Bordeaux is France’s most productive wine region, yet most of the attention is focused on a handful of high-profile châteaux (especially “First Growths” like Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, and Margaux). Château de Roques is a prime example of the myriad smaller producers throughout Bordeaux making wines of character in relative obscurity; the Sublett family has been producing wine in Puisseguin since 1822.

Also spelled “Puisseguin,” this is one of four village-appended AOCs that extend to the north and northeast of Saint-Émilion itself. The soils are effectively the same clay/limestone mixture found in Saint-Émilion, and Merlot covers 80% of the vineyard area in the appellation. Of those four satellite villages (others include Lussac and Montagne), Puisseguin has the strictest quality-control regulations for its wines.

Containing 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, this ’18 is deeply concentrated, with black fruits (Damson plum, blackberry) layered with notes of tobacco, herbs, and licorice. Tannins are silky, with crushed-stone minerality balancing the saturated fruit. Terrific old-school character—pair with steak au poivre!