What was once a pipe dream became a reality for us three years ago: A rare offering of Etienne Bécheras' Saint-Joseph, a wine that had historically been all but impossible to acquire practically anywhere beyond his own front door! We were beyond thrilled to see that parcel sell out in a matter of hours, but even that can’t hold a candle to today’s far-more limited “Tour Joviac” cuvée.
Granted, it’s taken three years to acquire our first batch, plus a personal visit to his cellar—or rather an old, hillside barn with a two-by-four latch serving as a lock and key. In fact, we tasted this exact wine while it was still maturing in barrel back on March 22, 2019. It was stunning then, but now, two years removed from that tasting, it has evolved into a jaw-dropping, transcendent force of nature. With its deep and chiseled minerality, massive explosion of blue and black fruits, and the exquisite sense of balance and tension that guarantees 10+ years of flattering evolution, it exemplifies all that makes Saint-Joseph one of the most revered Syrah-growing hillsides in the world. There’s no other way around it: Every dedicated student of the Northern Rhône should savor this rare bottle amongst fellow pupils and/or stash it in their cellars—it’s an insane investment opportunity, sensory experience, and French Syrah masterclass all in one!
I’ve said before that the word “cult” is particularly apropos for describing Bécheras’ outstanding northern Rhône reds. Bécheras only bottles a few hundred cases by hand each year, and until recently, they only entered the US in suitcases of in-the-know sommeliers and tenacious collectors. Even ardent northern Rhône enthusiasts might know this property only by reputation because, frankly, there’s not much else to go on! Bécheras never submits his wines for magazine reviews, most are sold directly to Michelin-rated restaurants in France, and, historically, anyone wishing to acquire even one bottle for home consumption had to personally know the man! The real kicker here is that, despite the ancient vines, legendary terroir, and hysteria, Bécheras insists on blue-collar pricing for his wines.
Based on the purity and beauty of Bécheras’ exquisite reds, one would not be faulted for imagining that the man himself would possess an aristocratic air. But in fact, he’s no delicate flower: Etienne visited Northern California recently in a delegation of esteemed producers of artisan Bordeaux and Rhône wines—in a roomful of smart blazers and industry chatter, Bécheras stuck out with his shaved head, military-grade agricultural attire, enormous biceps, and a handshake that could crumple a fire extinguisher. He is not a “wine professional.” He is a farmer and craftsman, through and through.
Bécheras’ property is not a typical vineyard/cellar/tasting room operation. It is an actual polycultural farm overlooking the western bank of the Rhône River. He commercially farms a few acres of organic apricot and cherry trees. A few more acres are dedicated to livestock that produce meat, cheese, and milk for his family (which he delightfully treated us to during our visit). A large stand of ash and acacia trees nurture a bounty of wild mushrooms and truffles while offering a sustainable source of firewood and construction materials. Ultimately, it feels as if his four hectares of grapevines are only one small component of his farmstead, not the centerpiece, but it would be a grave mistake to overlook the vinous magic happening at this rustic property.
Bécheras’ Saint-Joseph vines line a site composed of schist and granite, and today’s special “Tour Joviac” cuvée comes specifically from two steep parcels. All fruit is harvested by hand and left to macerate on skins for three days prior to de-stemming and crushing. Thereafter, fermentation continues for a month or so, depending on the vintage (there are no packaged yeasts or additives used to stimulate fermentation, everything at the estate is natural). Finally, the wine ages for no less than 24 months in a variety of 225-, 400-, and 600-liter neutral French oak barrels before being bottled without fining or filtration. The wine then rests for an additional six months in bottle before release. It’s an impressively patient process.
“Tour Joviac” is pitch-perfect, textbook Saint-Joseph. I’m confident you could pour me this wine 100 times blind, and every time I would call it top-vintage, top-producer Saint-Joseph. There’s something about the vividness of the granitic minerality and the depth and tension of the fruit that transports me right to this specific rocky hillside above the Rhône River. It fills the glass with an opaque purple-black core and unfurls with concentrated notes of blackcurrant, black cherry liqueur, black raspberry, licorice, blueberry, star anise, peppercorn, tapenade, cured meat, and baking spices. It’s a full-bodied, full-flavored red that unveils a new layer with every sip, a Syrah that thunders across your palate with equal amounts of brooding intensity and light-footed grace. It’s delicious now, but destined for a long life—2035 isn’t out of the question. Aside from some slow-cooked lamb, I can’t think of anything that would go better with today’s classic French Syrah than Epicurious’ original steak au poivre recipe from 1953. Cheers!
