Not only am I a year-round rosé drinker, I overwhelmingly prefer rosés that leave a lasting impression. Not everyone thinks of rosé this way—some want simple, slightly sweet refreshment and that’s it—but I suspect that if you subscribe to SommSelect, you think like I do. And I’ll go a step further: If you believe in the idea of terroir and appreciate wines that communicate it in a perceptible way, there are few wines in the world that do so as clearly and convincingly as Provençal rosé. That’s why, when the occasion calls for a rosé, I will always pay a (relatively slight) premium for a wine like Mas de Valériole’s “Grand Mar.” It is so worth it.
Not only is this wine meant to be a rosé from the outset (as opposed to being a by-product of a red wine fermentation), it plants you in a very specific place in the world and makes you want to know more about it. That place is called the Camargue, in Provence, right near where the Rhône River empties into the Mediterranean Sea. In addition to grapes, the Michel family of Mas de Valériole cultivates rice in the region’s nearby salt marshes, and when you taste this delectable rosé it’s impossible not to detect a saline component to the flavor and texture. Like all the best Provençal rosés, this one makes me instantly crave food—seafood especially—and when you consider what some of Provence’s marquee names are charging for their wines these days, this one stands out for its incredible value-for-dollar. We are “all-in” on this 2020—it’s the total rosé package, so be sure to get a package on its way to you!
It’s worth consulting a map to pinpoint exactly where Mas de Valériole is located: about 10 miles south of Arles, not far from the broad expanse of the Rhône River delta. Vineyards rooted in sandy soils eventually give way to a series of lakes and marshes as the Rhône meets up with the Mediterranean; on the label of today’s wine you’ll see it carries a “Bouches du Rhône'' (“mouth of the Rhône”) IGP designation, along with a shout-out to the “Terre de Carmargue.” Once you’ve established where it’s from, then there’s a unique grape variety to consider: Caladoc, a crossing of Malbec and Grenache used widely in the area. Both the spice and backbone of the former and the generous cherry/strawberry fruit of the latter are in evidence in “Grand Mar,” along with an unmistakable taste of the nearby sea.
The Mas de Valériole estate was originally established in the 15th century. The current owners, the Michel family, acquired the 45-hectare property in the 1950s, and in 2006, brothers Jean-Paul and Patrick Michel embraced organic viticulture practices, for which they are now certified. In addition to sand, the soils in the vineyards are a conglomeration of materials deposited by the Rhône, including alluvial loam and gravel. Breezes off the Mediterranean help moderate the temperature, enabling the Michels to preserve freshness and nerve across the entirety of their lineup.
The importer of today’s wine remarked on a certain “wildness” to this wine being central to its appeal; I agree, strongly. It is a classic salmon-pink in the glass and loaded with ripe fruit, but there’s also that salty, herbal twang that places it so firmly in Provence. Aromas of wild strawberry, blood orange, and red delicious apple skin merge with more-savory notes of sea salt, wet stones, dusty earth, and scrub-brush. It is medium-bodied, racy, and likely to be even better in its “second spring” (i.e. next year) if you manage to stay away from any of your bottles for that long. Few wines are as versatile with food, and with all sorts of summer seafood and vegetables soon to hit the table, there’ll hardly be a night when “Grand Mar” isn’t the perfect choice. Serve it in all-purpose stems at 45-50 degrees with all things Provence: bouillabaisse, ratatouille, etc. Check out the attached recipe for pissaladière, the local take on anchovy pizza: This is rosé done right!
