Achim von Oetinger is living proof that the historic Rheingau has reinvented itself and is shining brighter than ever before. The old guards are certainly still thriving but a new wave of young masterminds are surging, and if your finger is anywhere close to Riesling’s pulse, you’re familiar with at least one of them: Rheingau superstar Eva Fricke, a woman who’s seized the world’s attention at blazing speeds. Today, you need to commit a second name to memory: Von Oetinger—he’s on the cusp of stardom, and we want you to be there for the inevitable moonshot.
Desperately wanting to distance himself from what he calls the savorless “tourist wines” from generations past, he’s taken drastic measures to ensure only pristine, mineral-chiseled Rieslings leave his cellar. Nearly a decade ago, he started from scratch in both the vineyard and winery, questioning everything in his pursuit of quality, and that inquisitive mindset has paid massive dividends. Now, his top-tier, single-vineyard “Grand Crus” are receiving high scores and commanding top dollar, but ultimately, he measures himself on the strength and quality of his entry-level wines. That’s music to our ears since we’re of the (strong) opinion that any region-leading producer’s most affordable option should leave a deep impression. Today’s 2016 “Lösslehm” Riesling Trocken does just that: It’s packed with live-wire aromatics and bone-dry energy, and five years of total aging has added textural depth and sublime complexities that will only keep expanding with time. The renewed spirit of Rheingau speaks loud and clear in today’s wine, available at an everyday house-pour price of $29—this is an unmissable offer, swing big!
For nearly 200 years, Achim von Oetinger’s family has been cultivating grapes in and around the Rheingau village of Erbach. However, it wasn’t until Achim came on in recent years that the estate found its true identity: a propensity for soil expression, clean winemaking, and the absolute highest quality. The winery is unquestionably one of the rising stars in the Rheingau, and a member of the prestigious VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter), an exclusive organization that monitors quality from respected terroirs and holds its members to strict quality standards.
The estate controls 11 hectares of vines including substantial holdings in the prestigious sites of Erbacher Hohenrain, Siegelsberg, Steinmorgen, Michelmark, and the world-famous Marcobrunn, as well as a large holding in the Sandgrub vineyard in nearby Kiedrich. The vineyards are mostly planted in combinations of marl, loess, and loamy soils. Environmentally conscious, organic viticulture is consistently practiced with the exclusive use of natural fertilizer. Targeted pruning, yield reduction, and selective hand-harvesting have also largely benefited the quality of his wines across the board. In the cellar, Achim experiments tirelessly with various amounts of grape maceration which allows him to guide, maneuver or pinpoint texture and flavor. He will stir the lees in one lot but not the next as he feels his way through the matrix of all the elements in the cellar. His blending of various lots can include countless combinations and he has dozens of separate fermentations occurring simultaneously. All the white wines are tank-fermented and aged. As much as he respects tradition, he is reinterpreting his terroir and fashions himself as a pioneer of new ideas. Achim von Oetinger is zen-like in his approach to all things, deeply relaxed but intensely focused.
This 2016 von Oetinger Lösslehm Riesling Trocken has a contained ferocity that sets the stage for a captivating experience. A brief decant is recommended in order to accelerate the wine's “opening” phase. A service temperature of 50 degrees in your all-purpose stems will display a vivid lemon yellow tone with slight green reflections. Rising harmoniously are scents of blooming jasmine, lime, green apple, pink grapefruit, fresh herbs, and white nectarine. Plenty of structure and depth in the medium-bodied palate and a creamy, mineral texture delivers nothing short of pure sophistication. Powerful minerals and crushed stone lead the finish with an attractive bittersweet core of citrus and a refreshing tidal wave of acidity. An entry-level wine with the ability to provide such remarkable yet playful complexity is more than noteworthy which is why we urge you to start your affordable von Oetinger journey right here, right now. No regrets, guaranteed!
