Whether you’ve been imbibing for five months or five decades, there are a few “Holy Grail” experiences in wine that one should constantly pursue. I’m not talking about the white whales that make a small crater in your statement, but rather a perfect example of one of the most storied Burgundian terroirs on earth: Gevrey-Chambertin. 

When it comes to red Burgundy royalty, Gevrey-Chambertin is the immortalized king, known for producing the most brooding and mineral-heavy expressions of Pinot Noir in the entire Côte de Nuits. Experiencing a flawless bottle won’t just stick with you, it’ll make you a blue-chip Burgundy advocate for life, and launch your bar for Pinot Noir quality into the ether. Today’s 2016 “Vieilles Vignes” from Philippe Rossignol, produced from 60-year-old vines on Gevrey-Chambertin’s fabled hillside, will evoke those reactions, especially if this is your first encounter with a quintessential bottling. It’s a perfectly proportioned classic—evocative, dense, layered, muscular, mineral—and an incredible experience both now and 10+ years down the road. It should go without saying that these wines are minimally produced and extremely rare to come by in the US, so stock up on six while you can.

Insofar as old vines go in Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin has a stronghold. Its nine Grand Cru vineyards produce powerfully rich, densely layered, potent wines that are fascinating to enjoy in their youth and grow to earth-shatteringly complex heights as they mature. With the formidable Chambertin itself, and iconic neighbors, it’s only natural that a vigneron would feel humbled by his surroundings. These vineyard sites are centuries in the making and vines are rooted deep in limestone, which is why burgeoning producers can thrive here—as long as they have an adept hand in traditional winemaking. That’s where Domaine Philippe Rossignol comes into play. 

Philippe Rossignol established his eponymous domaine in the mid-1970s which qualifies as “new” in a place like Burgundy. Although Rossignol is still an under-the-radar producer, there is a close connection to one of Burgundy’s all-star cult producers: Gevrey’s Joseph Roty is Philippe’s brother-in-law, so there is no lack of prestige here. Today, Philippe’s son, Sylvain, works hand-in-hand with his dad to craft beautiful expressions of red Burgundy across a range of terroirs, and their Gevrey-Chambertin is a testament to their winemaking prowess. A few years back, we were among the first to introduce Philippe Rossignol wines to American wine lovers, and now, we can’t get enough. 

Today’s Gevrey-Chambertin is sourced from select parcels throughout his holdings in the appellation. Most vines are owned outright while some are by fermage, a long lease agreement (nine years minimum) that comes with the right of automatic renewal. They meticulously limit yields and always hand-harvest their crop. In the winery, the grapes are 90% de-stemmed and after a cool fermentation, the resulting wine is aged in mostly neutral French barrels for 18 months. It is bottled without filtration.  

In the glass, Rossignol’s 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin reveals a dark ruby-purple core moving to slight garnet hues on the rim. We recommend pouring it into a decanter and waiting at least 30-45 minutes before stealing your first sip, but it’ll be hard if you catch its scent in the meantime. Within moments, it releases powerful, brooding aromas like dried black cherry, currant, black raspberry, wild plums, iron, dried leaves, loose tea, rose, crushed rock, baking spice, and a hint of dried mushroom. The palate is medium-bodied, but with a firm structure and deep layers that may trick the taster into believing it’s “bigger.” Although coming in at less than five years of age, the tannins are already incredibly soft and fine-grained tannins, serving to further complement the dark forest-berry core. But what’s most apparent is that there are minerals abound in this wine, creating a rustic, savory edge like no other in Burgundy. This is serious Gevery-Chambertin, and while you can certainly enjoy one now, I strongly advise waiting another 2-3 years before beginning to open your others. The density of the wine with its profound structure and savory qualities calls for pairing with deeply delicious stews, slow-braised brisket, or lamb shank done on the grill! Enjoy!