I’m not afraid to say it: Champagne Pierre Paillard’s “Les Terres Roses” is a perfect bottle of Grand Cru Bouzy rosé. It’s also a rare-earth magnet for the sommelier community, but not because today’s new “XVII” release has yet to reach the mainstream channels—the reasons are far more substantial than that. The Paillards are deeply entrenched in the superstar-loaded village of Bouzy, with their family owning vines here since the 1700s. Naturally, they’re custodians of high-grade, sustainably farmed real estate and artisans of remarkably pure, trend-setting Champagne.

Take today’s “Les Terres Roses” label which has the impressive specs, soaring quality, and all-around buzz to command $100 and a prominent feature on every savvy wine list. Although this is the land of powerful and lush Pinot Noir, the Paillards shrewdly tap the shoulder of their Grand Cru Chardonnay to lead the blend at 65%. It’s a masterful fusion that provides immense lift, energy, and tension but that’s hardly a complete formula. Today’s stunning rosé partially aged in neutral French oak, developed in a centuries-old chalk cellar, and then received a low dosage before a splash of still Bouzy Pinot was added to create a blindingly vibrant, silver-pink color—one of Paillard’s many signatures. I guess what I’m trying to say is: If you want to experience the vertiginous peak of Grand Cru Bouzy, this is it. 

You know you’ve reached the next level of Champagne geekdom when you start shopping by village, which is why you’ll generally find me next to a bottle of Grand Cru Bouzy. This village lies at the southern end of the Montagne de Reims sub-region and enjoys a rare, full-southern exposure—making it one of the few places in all of Champagne where Pinot Noir ripens fully enough to make a still, Burgundy-esque red wine out of it. Today’s wine from Pierre Paillard is quintessential Bouzy rosé, with a twist: it contains an eye-popping percentage (65%) of Bouzy-grown Chardonnay which lends a bright, racy counterpoint to Pinot’s richness. 

For all of the focus on Pinot Noir in Bouzy, the Paillards point to the diversity of geology and expositions in their own little piece(s) of it. Some of their vineyards have been in the family since the mid-18th century, which is a winemaking history about as long as Bouzy’s itself; few if any producers can claim deeper roots in this terroir. Today, the eighth generation, Quentin and Antoine Paillard, run this ancient ship. The grapes for “Les Terres Roses” come from a handful of parcels holding vines that range from 10-60 years of age. Labeled as a ‘non-vintage’ wine, it is based primarily on one vintage with a smaller percentage of ‘reserve’ wines added according to the house style. This specific bottling is based on 2017 (note the ‘XVII’ on the front label), with a couple of older reserve vintages rounding it out. The base wine evolved in a combination of stainless steel and neutral oak vessels and, after bottling, the wine matured in their chalk cellars until disgorgement in the spring of 2020. Paillard is all about letting the powerful terroir of Bouzy shine through, so a very light 1.8-gram dosage was added. The final blend was 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir, with 5% of that Pinot being a ‘still wine’ to create the beautiful color in the glass. 

I cannot get enough of Pierre Paillard’s champagnes, and today’s “Les Terres Roses” is one of the most refreshing and fascinating I can remember. In the glass, it reveals a silver/pale pink core with a vigorous mousse and explodes with intense aromatics: grapefruit pith, white pear, Rainier cherry, crushed wild strawberries, underipe raspberry, lemon pith, citrus peel, crushed chalk, and a touch of damp herbs. The palate reveals a pure, elegant, laser-sharp rosé bolstered by expanding layers of crushed minerals and crisp forest fruit. The marriage of complexity, finesse, and downright deliciousness makes this a Grand Cru Bouzy standout. At $65, this is an absolutely sensational, essential rosé. Serve in all-purpose stems around 50-55 degrees and enjoy over the next five years. Even if you buy all 12 bottles, I guarantee you’ll wish you had more!