Even if you’re a SommSelect newcomer, I’m sure you’ve noticed our unrelenting commitment to sourcing Burgundy that over-delivers at all levels, but given the vintage-over-vintage uptick in prices, this task has become increasingly daunting.

For Grand Crus? The vast majority are well into the triple digits. Premier Crus? Fast approaching $100 and the best examples easily cross that threshold. Village-level? Generally $50-$75+. But what of today’s $35 Bourgogne Côte d’Or from Daniel Rion? Scrub the label and you’re looking at a lush, power-packed Pinot Noir from the lower slopes of Nuits-Saint-George that matured 18 months in French barrels, thereby transcending its pedestrian “Bourgogne” tag. In other words: With pedigreed raw material, generous aging, and a judicious kiss of new oak, today’s ready-to-drink 2018 red Burgundy is a veritable $34 steal!

Although Prémeaux is the hometown of the domaine, Daniel Rion’s humble beginnings began in 1955 with just two inherited hectares in Vosne-Romanée. From, there, he began building a reputation as a vigneron that sold high-quality fruit to local négociants. In 1978, his sons joined him while expanding the business with young energy and a new inventory of parcels. Currently, Domaine Daniel Rion consists of an impressive 18 hectares across 18 appellations within six villages of the Côte de Nuits and the Hautes-Côtes. They are Prémeaux, Nuits Saint Georges, Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, and Marey-les-Fussey. Additionally, they have Grand Cru parcels in both Clos Vougeot and Echezeaux. In essence, the Rions are guardians of a dizzying array of blue-blooded Burgundy real estate.  

Bourgogne Côte d’Or is a relatively new appellation that must come from grapes within the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. But today’s overachieving bottle specifically hails from several parcels located on the lower hillsides of Nuits-Saint-Georges, with soils composed of brown limestone with varying clay content. The vineyards are sustainably farmed in order to maintain healthy vines, active soils, and the overall purity of the fruit. Careful handling in the cellar follows suit as all fruit is de-stemmed and parcels are fermented naturally and separately in open-top vats, gently handled with punch-downs and pump-overs. The lots are then gravity pressed and aged on lees in French oak barrels, ~30% new, for 18 months.
 
When assembling the final blend for today’s 2018 Bourgogne Côte d’Or, the Rion’s were able to include small but meaningful excess lots from other cuvées which clearly augmented the overall dimension and depth of this wine. In the glass, it displays a deep garnet-red center hue with light ruby reflections on the rim. Classic aromas of ripe black cherry, wild blackberry, wet forest, smoky truffle, dried mushroom, and damp herbs all suggest a wine of high-ranking origin. The medium-bodied palate holds deeply concentrated flavors of blueberry conserve, warm cranberries, black truffle, wet bark, and spiced tea framed nicely by silky tannins and superb grip. Although instantly pleasurable, this Bourgogne is structured enough to evolve nicely and will gain more depth and complexity over the next 3-5 years. Whenever the time comes, open 30 minutes prior to enjoyment in your Burgundy stems and serve at a suggested 60-65 degrees. A traditional take on an herb-infused roasted chicken is a safe match here but don’t underestimate the firepower of this wine to take on a Korean-barbecued rack of lamb!