The mere mention of Bâtard-Montrachet puts luxury collectors in a frenetic state of mind because this mythical site is among the most prestigious and pedigreed Chardonnay terroirs on earth. And that’s not up for debate, either—it’s practically a universal truth. Along with Le Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet, these hallowed sites produce white Burgundy at its grandest, but Bâtard is the king of the trio when it comes to sheer opulence and hedonistic pleasure.
The legendary 28-acre vineyard itself is heavily divided by a cadre of iconic French vignerons who guard their sliver of vines like vigilantes. The wines are minimally produced and what little trickles into America is instantly sucked into the high-powered vacuum of the elite. Today’s Certified Organic, Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet from Alex Gambal is a prime example: He owns well under an acre here—in fact, he was the first non-Frenchman to own any Montrachet vines—and we nearly had to get physical to secure an amount that can be carried with my bare hands. This is the pinnacle of Chardonnay, and many would argue wine itself, so if you’re fortunate enough to stomach the price tag, here’s your exceedingly rare chance to acquire one of France’s Holy Grails. Only 56 cases were produced for the entire world.
Because of Burgundy’s global fame, many people who haven’t traveled there may think it's bustling with tourism and bumper-to-bumper traffic. It couldn’t be more opposite. The quaint villages peppered along the Côte d’Or transport you back to a simpler time, where everyone in the town knew each other and everything was within walking distance. Chassagne- and Puligny-Montrachet are shining examples: Both of the villages are home to just a few hundred people, and yet, this is home to the world's most famous Chardonnay plantings, the Grand Cru family of Montrachets.
Today, we’re offering Alex Gambal’s luxurious 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet. His climb into Burgundy’s upper echelons isn’t a rags-to-riches story, but it’s undoubtedly impressive and hard-won. In 1993, he chose to leave behind his family’s business in Washington D.C. and relocate to Beaune. Here, he began getting a feel for the land and the wine trade, and after four years, he launched a small négociant business—it’s much easier buying grapes than land, especially for a foreigner. After nearly two decades of building his brand and relationships, he made history in 2011 by becoming the first American to own vines in the Grand Crus of Montrachet. His purchase amounted to less than an acre in Bâtard-Montrachet, and he’s treated it with extreme care ever since: The handful of vines he owns are farmed organically and the soils are tilled by a horse-drawn plow.
In 2018, his crop was hand-picked at low yields and transferred to the cellar in small crates. A pneumatic press was used to gently extract the juice from the whole-bunch grapes and after 24 hours of settling in a stainless steel vat, the juice was gravity-fed into two French oak vessels: A new 228-liter barrel and a once-used 350-liter barrel. From here, a natural fermentation, both alcoholic and malolactic, was carried out. After 20 months of maturation in these barrels, the resulting wine was allowed to rest in stainless steel for two additional months before bottling.
There’s a reason Grand Cru Bâtard Montrachet is among the most worshipped Chardonnay in the world: The wines it produces, especially in a warm vintage like 2018, are paragons of hedonistic, mouth-coating luxury. If you’re inclined to enjoy it now, I won’t sit here and stop you, all I ask is you give it at least 60 minutes of air prior to taking your first sip. It unfurls slowly, but with an outstretched bear hug that delivers high-toned citrus, lush tropicals, bushels of just-picked orchard fruits, warm baking spice, perfumed flowers, and finely pulverized minerality. For those who wish to employ more patience, I recommend keeping your hands off this bottle for at least 2-3 more years to experience a more savory and less flamboyantly rich Grand Cru Chardonnay. Either way, the full extent of this wine won’t be unleashed until its seventh or eighth birthday. This is a powerful, intoxicating, palate-drenching tour de force, so whenever you do pull the cork, choose your drinking company and the occasion wisely. A great bottle of Bâtard is unforgettable. Cheers!
