It pains me to say it, but we nearly went the entire year without offering a single-vineyard bottling from Evesham Wood. Honestly, if there was a court of wine law, we might be tried for obstruction of justice! Call it a flair for the dramatic if you want, but there’s a reason we hold Evesham’s extraordinary gems in such high regard: They are the genuine article, a profound case study on Willamette’s terroir, and a powerful persuasion piece for those who have long been embroiled in the Oregon vs. Burgundy argument. Accordingly, the only time and place I wouldn’t want to drink Evesham Wood’s 2017 “Le Puits Sec” is during my Master Sommelier exam eight years ago because, in all likelihood, I would’ve called it a polished Chambolle-Musigny!
As our Pinot Noir advocates know, this small Willamette label has become something of a golden child on SommSelect. Every single-vineyard Pinot Noir they bottle, and subsequently every one we offer, is a smashing success, and for good reason: Their exceptional purity, spot-on terroir expression, and mesmerizing elegance is tantamount to the absolute greats of Burgundy. And guess what? “Le Puits Sec” is Evesham’s flagship bottling! Coming from their dry-farmed, Certified Organic, ‘own-rooted’ vineyard, today’s 2017 further cements my belief that few places (and producers) can rival the price-to-quality radiating from Oregon. This is one of the smartest ways to spend your wine buck. Enjoy it while you still can!
This should come as no surprise to those of you who’ve enjoyed the many excellent wines we’ve offered from Evesham Wood (and Haden Fig, for that matter). Erin Nuccio’s rapid rise through the wine ranks has been documented here: He started his career in wine at a retail shop in Washington, DC; moved west with his wife to attend enology school and apprentice at wineries; then landed a job with Evesham Wood founder Russ Raney, whose vineyard, first planted in 1986, was (and is) a model of sustainability—it was certified organic way back in 2000. Over the years, Nuccio became winemaker at Evesham Wood while also launching Haden Fig (a SommSelect’s subscriber favorite), and in 2010, Nuccio and his wife, Jordan, purchased Evesham Wood outright. In addition to bottling wines from Evesham Wood’s jewel-box estate vineyard, “Le Puits Sec” (“The Dry Well”), Nuccio continues the Raney tradition of crafting single-vineyard bottlings from sustainably farmed sites across the Willamette Valley.
Russ and Mary Raney first cultivated the treasured Le Puits Sec vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills back in 1986. The complex soils, rich in volcanic basalt, coupled with the east-facing slopes of 300-plus-feet elevation of this advantageously situated vineyard, offer the perfect site for world-class Pinot Noir. Russ and Mary embraced organic viticulture early on along with the traditional, minimal interference techniques of Burgundy. They do not irrigate their prized “old vines;” instead they dry farm in an effort to allow their vines to dig deep in the earth for nutrients, which further concentrates the fruit. Back in 2010, Russ and Mary finally retired and sold their estate to Erin and Jordan Nuccio, who have soaked their knowledge up like a sponge and have worked to maintain the Raney’s classic way of doing things through Certified Organic viticulture and minimal intervention. With the passion and dedication of their predecessors to fuel them, Erin and Jordan strive to maintain the consistency of quality on the estate in the same manner that Russ and Mary did by successfully allowing the vineyard to speak for itself. With a long fermentation and 18 months of aging in French oak (15% new), the result is a refined Pinot Noir that captures the charming qualities of Burgundy.
Evesham Wood’s 2017 “Le Puits Sec” Pinot Noir reveals a bright ruby core that moves out to a magenta band on the rim. You can immediately sense the wine’s understated power, complexity, and elegance, but to fully understand the sheer aromatics at play here it needs air so please decant for at least 30-60 minutes. The aromas that unfurl are pitch-perfect and borderline ethereal: muddled raspberry, black cherry blossoms, wild strawberry, underripe plum, loose tea, damp moss, sous bois, crushed rose petal, wet stones, and a delicate touch of baking spice. The palate is medium-bodied and bursting with energy, and each layer possesses impressive depth and concentration. It’s perfectly balanced with crunchy tannins that push their way to the fore, as well as a wonderfully refreshing presence of acidity that culminates with flavors of the forest, light touches of wild berries, and finely crushed minerals. Simply stated, it’s a master class on high-end Oregon Pinot and a sure-fire alternative to the much-pricier Premier Crus of Côte de Nuits. Serve in large Burgundy stems around 60 degrees and be sure to stow away a few bottles for enjoyment over the next 5-10 years. Cheers!
