You may remember today’s 2012 “Cuvée à l’Ancienne” as one of our special Friday Night offers back in June. We had seven cases available, the entire allocation for the State of California, and our inventory plummeted to zero in minutes. At the time, we had asked if Déthune’s importer could secure more and he responded with a prompt, if not succinct, “no.” Months passed before the heavens opened up: A small boutique shop in Europe reneged on a few bottles, followed by case retractions from restaurants, and today, we find ourselves the proud owners of a second tranche—even if it still equates to single-digit cases. 

For those looking for a Master Class on bonafide luxury Champagne, Déthune’s 2012 “Cuvée à l’Ancienne” should be your entire syllabus: Grand Cru fruit fermented in oak barrels; nearly seven years of aging on lees in a 17th-century chalk cellar; and an homage to the olden days with hand-tied twine securing the cork. Without question, “L’Ancienne” is the peak of Déthune’s stellar lineup, and with every recent vintage I’ve had the fortune of tasting—today’s 2012, 2011, 2008, 2007—I find myself calling it one of the finest experiences any Grand Cru Champagne can provide. In the select years a vintage is actually declared for “l’Ancienne,” no more than 1,000 bottles are produced for the entire world. Honestly, we’re still shocked to have lucked into a resupply. If you missed out the first time around, make sure you avoid that today. Up to four bottles per person.

Paul Déthune is a Récoltant-Manipulant (indicated by the tiny initials “RM” on the label), or grower-producer, which means they own, farm, and craft wines solely from their estate. While major Champagne houses, or Négociant-Manipulants, typically make wines by purchasing grapes from myriad farmers, a “grower-producer” controls every aspect of farming and winemaking; 95% of the fruit must be from their own vineyards (if a grower who only has Chardonnay vines wants to make a rosé, he can purchase some Pinot Noir/Meunier with that remaining 5%). The Déthunes have been farming and crafting Champagne in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay since 1889, but their winemaking lineage can be traced to 1610. 

Today, Pierre Déthune and his wife, Sophie, tend to 17 organically-tended acres throughout Ambonnay. It is here that Pinot Noir reveals its most intense expression, delivering signature minerality and terroir that translates to opulent, perfectly balanced Champagnes. They are adamant about respecting nature, too—organic fertilizers are used, cover crops are planted, solar panels have been installed, and a rainwater collection system has been implemented, making them one of Champagne’s leading champions of sustainability. 

For “Cuvée à l’Ancienne,” equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—they only select the best fruit of the vintage—are hand-picked from their parcels in Grand Cru Ambonnay. In their impressively grandiose cellar, the grapes fermented (both alcoholic and malolactic) and briefly aged in 205-liter barrels before bottling without filtration. After nearly seven years of aging on lees, this fresh batch was disgorged in June of 2020 and hemp twine was fastened to secure the cork. This is a tribute to the Champagnes of old, a tradition that long precedes muselets (wire cages) and agrafes (metal staples). Another note of interest is that, instead of adding a standard dosage, Pierre uses MCR, or moût concentré rectifié, which is a super-concentrated grape must reduced down to its base sugars. It is rarely found in Champagne, but several growers are now using it with the mindset that it has less influence on the final product; i.e. a more neutral and natural method. 

This is a stirring 2012 Champagne that thrills from start to finish with some of the purest, richest aromas/textures one could ever hope to find in a Grand Cru. In the glass, it reveals a deep silver-yellow core and an ultra-fine mousse that speaks to the wine’s superb quality and lengthy élevage. If this is your first “luxury Champagne” or sparkling wine splurge, I assure you the only regret will be that you couldn’t purchase more. Truly, the only reason I’m restraining myself from purchasing six is due to the microscopic quantity in our possession—i.e. this needs to be shared with as many people as possible, not bogarted by a few. In the glass, powerfully seductive aromas arouse intense emotion: quince, yellow apple skin, Meyer lemon curd, pineapple, white peach, vanilla crème brûlée, fresh-baked brioche, salted caramel, hazelnut, lees, raw honeycomb, yellow flowers, oyster shell, and heaps of finely crushed chalk. The palate is full and profound, showcasing deeply satisfying layers of ripe, rip-roaring fruit and minerals that linger for well over a minute. Seriously: this astounding length is typically reserved for the finest mature Burgundy, Bordeaux, Piedmont, Rioja, etc. Savor every ounce and closely guard your other bottles (they will keep for another 10 years with ease) because this is among the most spectacular experiences in Champagne. Cheers!