Remember Ruelle-Pertois’ 2011 from last year? It was a disgorged-to-order Blanc de Blancs masterpiece that completely recalibrated our understanding of value and led us to exclaim that an equally priced Grand Cru Vintage Champagne of this age, profundity, and sophistication might not exist. Our allocation didn’t survive long: It found over 100+ good homes and subsequently drew dozens of entreaties for more—unfortunately, that was the last of it. Now, channel all of the excitement you had for that stunning bottle (from the trying 2011 vintage, no less) and direct it towards today’s newly disgorged 2012, one of the greatest vintages of modern times. And then realize it still comes in under $60! Read on to learn more about why we consider this tiny grower-producer the best-kept secret in Grand Cru Champagne.
Ruelle-Pertois was discovered by importer Charles Neal at about the same time I entered the wine business, and the story behind it speaks volumes to the immense power of exclusivity. In 1999, no one outside of France had ever seen or heard of Ruelle-Pertois, but when Neal asked if he could represent them, proprietor Michel Ruelle simply responded “no.” The longer explanation is that Michel had no wine available: Every bottle in his cellar was already assigned to friends, family, and longstanding French accounts. So, Neal began the waiting game and was finally permitted a small batch at the beginning of the new millennium. Even now, Ruelle-Pertois is still brought over in ripples—as for today’s 2012? Just 25 cases for all of America, so I feel that we’ve once again been rewarded with an extremely rare opportunity. Buy all 12 bottles allowed to you, and every single one will be devoured.
Other than the above, there’s simply not much information circulating around for Ruelle-Pertois: There’s no website and hardly anyone has access to these bottles. What we do know is that Michel Ruelle and his wife, Martine Pertois—both from Champagne-producing families—wed in the early 1970s, created their own estate, and have since passed the torch to their own children. They own about six hectares of vines, four of which are scattered throughout the Côte des Blancs Grand Crus of Cramant, Chouilly, and Oiry.
It is from these legendary villages that today’s 2012 Vintage Champagne is sourced. Following lutte raisonnée principles, all Grand Cru Chardonnay fruit is hand-harvested and shuttled to their cellar in Moussy, about 10-15 minutes away. After a gentle pressing and fermentation, the wine is transferred to bottle and cellared for an absurd amount of time. Keep in mind, a vintage Champagne need only age in bottle for 36 months, but Ruelle-Pertois absolutely shatters that baseline: Today’s 2012 matured sur lie (on its fine lees, under a crown cap) for ~90 months before disgorgement! After a seven-gram dosage, the wine was corked and shipped directly to America earlier this year.
Ruelle-Pertois’ 2012 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs exhibits a deep straw-yellow in the glass with vivid silver hues moving towards a clear rim. A vigorous mousse is revealed upon first pour, so I suggest waiting a few minutes before dipping your nose into the glass. The aromatics are quite intoxicating and unafraid of showing off a voluptuous core of fruit led by ripe pineapple, quince, lemon curd, yellow apples, and apricot. Give it a bit more time and the aromatic range widens to reveal caramel, hazelnuts, crushed oyster shell, chalk, buttered toast, lees, a dollop of fresh cream, and vanilla bean. At eight years old, there is still immense energy to be had which just speaks to the profound qualities of Grand Cru Chardonnay in the legendary 2012 vintage. The palate reveals far more weight and richness than last year’s 2011, so if you prefer a bit of creaminess and luxury in your Champagne, this will demand your attention. Since Ruelle-Pertois has already done the bulk of aging for you, this world-class Grand Cru value is ready to enjoy now in all-purpose stems around 50 degrees. That said, it will keep aging for another decade, so I can’t stress enough how wise it would be to load up with 12 bottles. When it comes to 2012 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, there’s no better way to spend $59. Cheers!
