Seeing as Domaine Gautheron’s 2018 was our fastest Chablis sellout of the past two years, many of you have probably committed their classically styled label to memory. But today’s offer isn’t that exquisitely crafted, mineral-loaded, Chardonnay masterpiece from eight months ago. This is Gautheron’s “Vieilles Vignes,” their limited, old-vine, barrel-aged release, and although it costs a few dollars more, you’ll render that marginal price increase insignificant once realizing it delivers twice the depth and deliciousness. For me, it is a bonafide classic Chablis that perfectly fits the bill for stand-alone enjoyment, a blind tasting, and/or fine dinner.
Why? There are only a select few regions in the world that I never tire of drinking: Burgundy is one of them, and so is its northerly extension, Chablis. If they’re traditionally crafted (this is) in a standout vintage (2018!!!), I’m going to be enamored with these wines 10 out of 10 times. Between you and me, if Gautheron’s special “Vieilles Vignes'' happened to be all 10 of those wines, I’d be thrilled! Culled from estate-owned, 70-year-old vines and aged in neutral French oak barrel, this holds all the Chablisienne essentials along with a level of depth that poses as a top, $50+ Premier Cru. With show-stealing vibrancy and a richly textured, eons-long salty/chalky/citrusy finish, this outrageously delicious bottle should be the sole representative of its region. Perhaps the most exciting aspect here is that there is no three- or six-bottle limit. Today, we can part with up to 12 per customer. I suggest you follow in our footsteps and go wild!
By respecting nature, bottling mind-blowingly pure Chablis, and staying in their lane, Gautheron knows their true identity. We cannot thank them enough for it, and we can’t get enough, either! Really, any producer who has spent 200+ years and seven generations learning this ancient, fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil wholeheartedly deserves my respect. Domaine Gautheron is based in the village of Fleys which sits a few kilometers southeast of Chablis proper, not far from the slope containing the region’s string of Grand Cru vineyards. Although five generations came before Alain Gautheron, it was he who ramped up production at the domaine in the late 1970s. Since that time, along with the help of his son Cyril starting in the year 2000, the estate has grown to 25 primely situated hectares that span the entire range from Petit Chablis all the way up to Grand Cru Preuses. Today, Cyril is in charge of the operations.
When Cyril came aboard, he set his sights on overhauling their old cellar: most notably, by lining the walls with a small army of stainless steel tanks. With this substantial investment, he was able to vinify parcels separately and expertly blend them together like a mad scientist. Take today’s 2018, which hails from some of his oldest holdings between 60 and 70 years of age. After harvesting by hand, each unique, old parcel fermented (including malo) separately in stainless steel before the resulting wine was transferred into neutral French barrels. After several months of maturation, the wine was blended, lightly filtered, and bottled. This parcel arrived stateside just weeks ago.
When it comes to typicity, depth, and texture, Gautheron’s 2018 “Vieilles Vignes” Chablis far surpasses the expectations of its village-level appellation and waltzes straight into Premier Cru territory. As such, you shouldn’t be surprised if and when this outperforms some of your friend’s Premier Cru bottlings (although they certainly will be!). In the glass, this spills out a vivid straw-yellow with neon green and silver reflections throughout. After about 15 minutes of air, gorgeous, high-toned aromas of salted yellow apple, lush white peach, apricot, and green apple peel pour out, followed lockstep by lemon and lime blossoms, finely crushed chalk, oyster shell, lees, a bouquet of wildflowers, and a faint hint of vanilla. All of these captivating notes carry over to an energized palate filled with the Chablisienne trademarks of precision, piquancy, and invigorating refreshment. As mentioned, there is another gear to this barrel-aged “Vieilles Vignes” in the form of deeply satisfying layers of minerality, oak spice, and fleshy citrus/orchard fruit. This will keep improving over the next 2-5 years, easily, and stands to gain more savory components and leesy mellowness around 2028. There’s a reason I always secure Gautheron’s bottlings more than my usual amount of—they are thoroughly enjoyable both now and in the years to come!
