Those of you who collect the great wines of the world will instantly recognize this Côte-Rôtie from Patrick Jasmin as (a) one of the most terroir-expressive Northern Rhône Syrahs money can buy and (b) probably the greatest value in the category. I count Domaine Jasmin among the handful of wines that most faithfully captures the character of Côte-Rôtie, comparable to greats such as Jamet and Guigal in all but price tag.
Their winemaking style exists in stark contrast to the modern trends of over-extraction and heavy new oaking, and serves as a touchstone for those who prize perfume, deep minerality, and finesse over muscle. Today, Patrick Jasmin follows in his father’s footsteps with the confidence of a man who was born into this life, producing what critic Robert Parker calls “one of the appellation’s most profound wines.” His 2016 “La Giroflarie” is Northern Rhône Syrah at its most soulful, composed of fruit from the domaine’s eight lieu-dit vineyards. It’s downright Burgundian in its silky nakedness and connection to the earth; drink it now or in 20 years, but either way, you’ll never look at Syrah the same again (unless, of course, you’re a Jasmin devotee like me). We don’t have a lot to share today, so take up to six bottles before it sells out—that’s the vinous equivalent of grand larceny!
This domaine’s origins can be traced back to Alexandre Jasmin, who moved from Champagne to the village of Ampuis in the 19th century. He was a chef at the Château d’Ampuis and inevitably fell in love with the local wines—no surprise there. The first vintage of Domain Jasmin made its debut at the Concours Agricole in Paris in 1909, where it medaled and has been sought after by lovers of fine Syrah ever since. Alexandre’s son, Georges, then Georges’ son, Robert, and now Robert’s son, Patrick, have stayed true to the course and emerged as one of the Côte-Rôtie’s greatest winemaking dynasties.
Fruit for Jasmin’s primary cuvée, La Giroflarie, comes from 11 different parcels spread across eight different lieu-dits, each steeper than the next. Ninety-five percent of the vines are Syrah and the remaining are Viognier, which reflects the traditional Côte-Rôtie blending formula and accounts for the wine’s penetrating perfume and relative delicacy. In total, there are just under 10 acres, all tended by the hyper-independent Patrick. When he isn’t scrambling up some of the most precipitous terraces in the Rhône Valley, he likes to go car racing on professional tracks... to relax. He tends his vine with signature intensity, refusing machinery and all shortcuts. Patrick is one of the only vignerons dedicated to the conservation of a particular field selection of Syrah known as “La Vieille Sérine.” This version of Syrah can be traced back 2,000 years to when the Romans first planted vines in the Côte-Rôtie, and is known for its aromatics, lower yields, and tiny berries. The final blend deftly marries the elegance from more granitic sites with the schist-derived power of the old “Sérine” vines planted in the 1920s.
In the winery, Patrick has followed in his father’s footsteps in all respects except one: the introduction of de-stemming. Skins are fermented with the juice for approximately 20 days during which Patrick uses both pump-overs and punchdowns, which are done by foot. The cap of grape skins is submerged and held in place with wooden planks. Wines age for 24 months in pièces (228L) and demi-muid (600L) only 30% of which are new. The 2016 Giroflarie was bottled without fining or filtration.
Rarely have I encountered a more profound expression of Côte-Rôtie. Pouring Domaine Jasmin is like uncorking a bottle of precious perfume—shimmering violets and raspberry coulis reach your nose before the wine has even hit the glass. I recommend serving at a cool 60 degrees after decanting, the longer the better. The initial aromas of fresh purple flowers and red fruit become darker with whispers of tobacco, cloves, and toffee. The palate is lively, juicy, and flowing with Morello cherry compote, mineral-accented red berries and the most refined pepperiness possible. Brisk tannins give this wine fibre and spine—it feels raw and pure as grape juice in certain moments, and as supremely elegant as Grand Cru Burgundy in others. That’s the magic of Domaine Jasmin, and the Giroflarie delivers with unparalleled clarity and an unforgettably long finish. Before you know it, all that’s left is a lingering whiff of warm spices, and the goosebumps running down your spine.
Sometimes, a wine is so achingly lovely and whole on its own that I find it difficult to suggest a food pairing. Try the Domaine Jasmin with something extraordinary, like a braised rabbit and bacon pie. I want to caution that this combination will reset your bar for pleasure, permanently. Enjoy at your own risk!
